A couple of months ago I purchased a 2021 Land Rover Defender 90 First Edition D250 MHEV, English build. I live in New Zealand. It is a much-admired vehicle in this part of the world. However, it has a fault that the local dealers cannot pinpoint. The LR testing computers show no faults but those same dealers confirm that the noise coming from the front end is not normal.
It is an intermittent vibration and accompanying sound that sounds like a whirring gyro. The vibration is felt on the steering wheel. At first, I thought it was a software issue causing the MHEV generator or electric turbo to operate irregularly out of sync. However, the vehicle is up to date with software.
Any ideas on the source of this noise would be appreciated.
All other functions are working normally.
Factory 22” Black Alloys,
GPS/Sat Nav,
Roof Rails,
Running Boards
Ebony Premium Leather throughout,
Panoramic Canvas Folding Roof,
Full Air Suspension,
Optional front jump seat ( 6 seaters),
Black Pack ( roof and front etc ),
Wheel arch and side Flares,
Spare wheel cover
Media Centre with Navigation,
Mudflaps,
Privacy Glass,
Lane change assist,
Surround Cameras,
Click and Go Coathanger,
Tow Bar with extension for Kuat eBike Rack,

 

A couple of more data points needed to pinpoint. Does the vibration go up or down in pitch with either the tach or speed? Only at certain tach or speed? Anything of electrical nature in operation? What is the engine temp, does it happen after you load it up on an uphill for example? Aside from a vibration fleet in the wheel, do you feel any steering effect? Examples; slight application of anti-lock system, electric cooling fan issue, steering motor, hobbit stuck in the serpentine belt. There are a couple of vibration dampeners on the engine, they can have a resonant issues from internal bearings.

 

Thank you for your response. I am stumped.
The vibration and sound does not change in pitch with different speeds but is most noticeable at inner-city speeds. 10 km - 70 km ( this could be because it is masked at higher speeds. ).
It is most noticeable in the first few km of driving and then stops but returns on an intermittent basis on the journey.
There is no steering effect just a minor vibration in the steering wheel.
There is no effect under load uphill
There are no faults showing either on the dash or on the dealer's computer.
The sound is very much like a freewheeling flywheel and causes a slight drag on power. ( that might be my imagination ). That's why I thought it might be connected to the 48volt charging system for the MHEV,
I have now done 4,400 km with no change in the effects.

 

These are the most difficult things to diagnose, at least until the culprit fails. Since it is a steady state vibration, I would be inclined to suspect the cooling system. Then again, you almost have to eliminate what it cannot be and see what is left. You may have a mounting attachment that is loose and resonating. Could even be one of the many heat shields slightly loose, when it heats up, it expands and gets tighter.

 

Most of the sound problems that folks post on this forum are because of poor fitment issues or because something wasn't secured appropriately. For instance, because a fastener wasn't attached correctly, torqued to spec, or downright failed. I suspect that you have a completely different issue. Because you are feeling the vibration in the steering wheel yours is not a trim fitment issue but a mechanical problem related to steering or wheel systems. I would recommend doing a couple light easy things first. It is not out of usual to have tires that are defective. I would rotate the tires to see if it lessened the issue or switched it to the back of the truck. If so, get new tires. Common (well actually they are very uncommon - but if you have trouble with the tires, these are common) - common problems is that the tire is surprisingly out of round. The road noise and the vibration would come to you. Also, after you rotate the front tires to the back, if the vibration changes and you feel it behind you, it could be because of poor balancing of the tires. Easily one or more of the weights could have fallen off in shipping or they balanced them poorly. Third and final one should be taken care of already if you do the above: one or more of the lug nuts could be loose. If they really took off the tires or rotated them and it's still there - this isn't it. But poorly torqued lugs happen a LOT. Especially if lugs get cross threaded or a normal schmoe's changes their own tires and don't torque them enough. These three problems should be your hope & prayer because the others are going to get expensive, ugly, and dangerous.

If the previous tire problems aren't it {again your best bet is to comfirm it by putting those two in the rear or, better, temporarily try new wheels} then you are going to have to check the normal suspension and drive components: tie rods are common (again, uncommonly common), bearings (these can cause the noise), and a myrid number of other issues. I doubt if any of these would come up on a fault code which is why the techie isn't going old school "Click & Clack" and trying to diagnose it via computer. There will be no faults thrown until it is WAY too late. Take it BACK to the Dealer and talk to them about your concerns & the potential liability. If you have a 3rd party Land Rover mechanic around take it to them and be VERY glad to pay them for the diagnostics time. You'll seriously want to get that checked out.

 

We are starting to think it might be the A/C pump as the sound and vibration is not there if you turn it off.

 

Remove the belt and use your hand to test the bearing clearance on the pulley. Alternatively, it may be mis-deduced from the pump manufacturer. I would settle this with a complaint.

 

This picture deserves a thread of its own.

I would drive a bus full of nuns and bunny rabbits off a cliff to wake up to that every day.

 

Queenstown - how lucky you are to live there