I had my hood wrapped in glossy black PPF to be two toned like the X trim. I was going to replace the emblem/name plate that says Defender with a Gloss Black style to match the hood. My wife says this will wash out the emblem and says I should get something that contrasts.

I was not looking to purchase an OEM replacement as they are pricey. I found a non oem that also has a matte grey which I thought might look pretty good. I am also going to have the lower bumpers painted black. They are currently the ceres silver satin color.

So options are gloss black, matte black, matte grey, or I could keep the ceres silver satin that came with the vehicle. What would you go with and why?

 

I have an X with the extended black package and I think it looks incredible. When the sun hits the roof at most angles you can totally see the name.
I would personally spend the extra cash and get the OEM gloss black nameplate. You've already spent the money on a Rover and a wrap, dont skimp on the nameplate.

 

I am figuring oem and non oem nameplate will be similar quality since the product is rather simple. Could be wrong on that.

 

@Moretti - You are probably spot on re: the quality of the badges/letters between OEM/non-OEM. Back when I was looking into them, what I noticed was that the tape on the back appeared to be different between OEM and the non-OEM. I eventually went OEM because I just didn't want to deal with some sort of weak/sub-quality adhesion and then drive around with a few letters missing. I'm sure many may have good results, but I just ordered from PowerfulUK and have had great luck. But I will admit, I haven't had them long or abused them (too much) so far. So time will tell there.

On a similar track, I changed out the badging on the back. The smaller "Defender" on the left of the wheel. That was non-OEM because I couldn't source OEM. That was straight e-bay and I tried to find those that appeared to have the same adhesion (for the record, the really lame ones just have a strip of 3M type tape while OEM/better non-OEM it appears to be "poured" / molded entirely into the concave back of the letters). The only problem I had was that the foam letter spacing template was WAY wider than the actual badging. I made a temporary jig and the spacing came out very well. Since then, I think PowerfulUk is stocking the rear as well and it appears to have the correct, smaller spacing.

 

I like the contrast option better, but dark colors look cool the same!

 

Moretti - I assume the shop that did your gloss black ppf removed the letters (rather than cutting around them)? I also assume they are mounted using a double backed tape?
Might you put the letters back on temporarily (using a temporary double backed tape) and see what you think before going with ad different color?

Another option is use a "plastic dip" product to see if you like them blacked out. I've used https://www.dipyourcar.com/products/...31572436811859 on some other badges/lettering and it works great.

 

Your assumptions are correct and that is a good ideal to use the current silver to see how I like the idea of the contrast.

I was going to hyperdip my wheels originally but now I think I am just going to have them powder coated black. Just doing the emblems might not be a bad idea. The cost to buy non OEM emblems is about $15 each (front and on the rear door). OEM are like $140 and $115.

 

I'll be looking forward to your photos and decision, as if my 110-X (gondwanna stone) ever arrives, I'll be considering the same as I'll have a local shop do clear PPF on the black as I'm getting the factory satin ppf on the brown.

 

 

hmmmm. tough choice.
Have you considered no emblems at all?