Front end protection question
#11
I have the aftermarket one on order, expected to arrive tomorrow. In PowerfulUK's installation video they show cutting away the panel behind the under shield, this would remove mounting points for the original cover which I prefer not to do. My question is, can it be installed without cutting away the panel? I read a comment that this may be possible.
I installed the aftermarket one a couple of weeks ago. It was pretty straight forward. I was worried about losing the plastic mounting points but I was able to cut away much less plastic than in the powerfuluk video so they are still there. I traced the bracket and then trimmed my cut until the bracket cleared.
The two front holes in the plate needed a little adjusting with a grinder to make it fit as there was no room to straighten it - you get what you pay for but it really wasn’t difficult.
I was worried about it not being as strong as the OEM one but it seems solid and looks like it can’t go anywhere if it gets a knock but for the amount of off-roading I’ll do it’s definitely more than enough.
#12
I will say the LR kit bar has a steel "pocket" that seems like it will keep some debris from getting through to the top of the under engine shield. Could be an annoyance if junk packed up in there with the aftermarket front shield, as it just leaves an opening with no "pocket".
#13
but oddly it seems to lack protection on either side lower like the stock one does. - right, the stock bar is very beefy on both sides
In my 'easy accessible towhook mod' for the stock plate , I did put a little piece of diamond plate between the 2 holes to avoid a lot of debris deep behind.
In my 'easy accessible towhook mod' for the stock plate , I did put a little piece of diamond plate between the 2 holes to avoid a lot of debris deep behind.
Last edited by Defendit..; 10-23-2022 at 03:56 AM.
#15
Nice work!
Another way to address the slight misalignment is to grind down one side of the washer on the mounting bolt a bit. That's what I did with mine to get the bolts to align.
Another way to address the slight misalignment is to grind down one side of the washer on the mounting bolt a bit. That's what I did with mine to get the bolts to align.
I installed the aftermarket one a couple of weeks ago. It was pretty straight forward. I was worried about losing the plastic mounting points but I was able to cut away much less plastic than in the powerfuluk video so they are still there. I traced the bracket and then trimmed my cut until the bracket cleared.
The two front holes in the plate needed a little adjusting with a grinder to make it fit as there was no room to straighten it - you get what you pay for but it really wasn’t difficult.
I was worried about it not being as strong as the OEM one but it seems solid and looks like it can’t go anywhere if it gets a knock but for the amount of off-roading I’ll do it’s definitely more than enough.
The two front holes in the plate needed a little adjusting with a grinder to make it fit as there was no room to straighten it - you get what you pay for but it really wasn’t difficult.
I was worried about it not being as strong as the OEM one but it seems solid and looks like it can’t go anywhere if it gets a knock but for the amount of off-roading I’ll do it’s definitely more than enough.
#17
I have utilized the bashing protection of the OEM front protection shield and concur with nashvegas that the beefier support bar earns its place in off-road use. I know it is a pain to switch out the on-road stock version, but it is straightforward.
That said, the original plastic cover hiding the front recovery loop is the devil's design and if one is not going off-road with intensity, it's worth whatever effort you desire to impart to expose the loop.
Enjoy!
That said, the original plastic cover hiding the front recovery loop is the devil's design and if one is not going off-road with intensity, it's worth whatever effort you desire to impart to expose the loop.
Enjoy!
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Cornbeef (11-03-2022)
#18
I received my aftermarket skid plate and had a chance to install it yesterday. It is indeed possible to install without cutting away the rear plastic shield / trim plates and original mounting points. So, with the usual caveat of "at your own risk" here's what I did if it is helpful to you. The main issue you are trying to overcome is access to the new M6x25 torx bolts that will clamp the U-brackets to the frame.
1) Remove the 8 torx screws that hold the rear shield, for each side there is one near the center and then three vertically on the side. You probably don't need to undo the top one but I did it anyway.
2) Unpin the shield from the main plastic surround at two points under, these are push fit
3) This now allows plenty of flex to pull the shield forward at both sides, insert say a small section of 2x4" wood behind to protect while drilling. There are a couple of coolant lines to be wary of.
4) Drill 2 x 7/8" (22mm) holes each side (see alignment and locations in the photos)
5) Remove your wood protection and insert the U-brackets behind the frame
6) Now you will have access to the clamp points and your bracket mounting hole should also be accessible through an existing hole in the shield. Clamp your new brackets in place.
7) Finally put your rear shield back together, pin below and tighten the 8 torx screws before mounting the new skid plate.
Hope that all makes sense.
For some general feedback on the install, it's about 2 hours work, the fit and finish is decent - I have a small gap on the left side of the car that perhaps I can tweak out with adjustments, but honestly it's no worse than my original plastic shield that had a gap on the opposite side. The silver torx bolts at the top front are slightly too short, I plan to change mine to black with matching washers so will purchase M10x35 (would be nice if these were in the kit especially if ordering the black skid plate). Lastly, the JLR tow ring while functional is really basic welded steel tubing, I see spots of rust already on a 2 week old car - I plan to treat and paint, I still think a cover plate would be nice here so will write to Simon @ PUK.
Overall, I'm happy to now have a proper skid plate at the front and access to the tow ring.
1) Remove the 8 torx screws that hold the rear shield, for each side there is one near the center and then three vertically on the side. You probably don't need to undo the top one but I did it anyway.
2) Unpin the shield from the main plastic surround at two points under, these are push fit
3) This now allows plenty of flex to pull the shield forward at both sides, insert say a small section of 2x4" wood behind to protect while drilling. There are a couple of coolant lines to be wary of.
4) Drill 2 x 7/8" (22mm) holes each side (see alignment and locations in the photos)
5) Remove your wood protection and insert the U-brackets behind the frame
6) Now you will have access to the clamp points and your bracket mounting hole should also be accessible through an existing hole in the shield. Clamp your new brackets in place.
7) Finally put your rear shield back together, pin below and tighten the 8 torx screws before mounting the new skid plate.
Hope that all makes sense.
For some general feedback on the install, it's about 2 hours work, the fit and finish is decent - I have a small gap on the left side of the car that perhaps I can tweak out with adjustments, but honestly it's no worse than my original plastic shield that had a gap on the opposite side. The silver torx bolts at the top front are slightly too short, I plan to change mine to black with matching washers so will purchase M10x35 (would be nice if these were in the kit especially if ordering the black skid plate). Lastly, the JLR tow ring while functional is really basic welded steel tubing, I see spots of rust already on a 2 week old car - I plan to treat and paint, I still think a cover plate would be nice here so will write to Simon @ PUK.
Overall, I'm happy to now have a proper skid plate at the front and access to the tow ring.
#19
#20