Im seeing all these people install big heavy tires and aftermarket rims to their
defenders. In my opinion, a lighter combination of brake, tire and wheel is better in everyway.
Im sure im not the only one conscious of this and would like to know what if anything you have done to keep unsprung weight per corner the same or under stock.
Im looking into 2 piece rotor setups to start and am interested in finding a package that improves the braking performance whilst also decreasing the necessity of 20 inch wheels for the p400. I am aware of the lucky 8 kit but the goal here is to expand options as far as 18 inch wheels go whilst improving braking performance and saving weight at each corner

 

So, what are your goals? While I agree that adding heavy tires will be maladaptive if you are doing mostly street driving, decreasing unsprug mass can definitely have negative effects for a vehicle designed for off road.

I have 15 lb wheels on my other car (along with lightweight control arms, aluminum Ohlins coilovers, RE71 tires etc) - they're fun on the track but they bend quite easily. Decreased rotor mass leads to less heat capacity. It's always going to be a big heavy truck, what are you looking to gain with decreased unsprung mass?

 

Pretty sure I just added 100 pounds with the Rak Attach I installed today. That thing is built so solid.

Last Friday I was carrying about 1400 pounds in the Defender and it drove nearly the same as when empty. The last thing I'm concerned about is unsprung weight.

 

The Defender, due to its: off-road design optimization for strength and durability, its high roof loading, its unsurpassed: carrying capacity in its class, high towing capability and torsional rigidity -- is approximately 800 lbs heavier ( I recall) than an equivalent JLR product (RR Sport). (And 800 pounds or so lighter than the LR4 -- that one was HEAVY).

I fully agree unsprung mass on a sports car is critical to speed on the circuit. Not so much for an Overlanding or serious off-road machine. Strength under the heavy load is more critical, particularly when off-road the entire weight of the vehicle at times must be borne by only two wheels and two tires.

Just a couple quick thoughts...

 

Any vehicle would benefit from strong light engineering. If it didnt, then the defender wouldn’t be composed mostly of aluminum.
furthermore an overlanding rig would benefit immensely by the weight saving of rotational mass. A lot of energy is required to accelerate big heavy tire wheel combos. You could see fuel savings and large range increases with careful weight savings and if you plan on upgrading wheels brakes and or tires then i think there should be a collective on here on how to do that whilst saving weight. If its the least of your concerns, please by all means enjoy your smiles per gallon.

 

unsprung weight does not have to come with less strength. But for most the defender is being used for overlanding and massive weight being added on.

but your on the right track of looking into rotors and possible forged wheels

i chose the Black Rhino Chase which is a rotary forged wheel- not true forged wheel. when comparing similar spec wheel my wheel was 5 lbs lighter per wheel. in the sports car world that’s huge. equally or possibly stronger than a cast wheel but lighter. better acceleration and braking

bit beside brakes and wheels there isn’t much to save.

 

So, I don't see a meaningful way to reduce suspension/control arm weight. And rotational weight is the most important part of unsprung weight.

Lighter weight brakes will have less heat capacity, even if the diameter is the same - which doesn't sound ideal for a truck that can tow 8000lbs. The only way to really improve brake performance (not sure that it is needed as tires are the limiting factor) would be to go larger, which would mean net even weight for brakes at best AND heavier wheels to clear larger calipers. With the weight of the brakes being closest to the axis of rotation - it is less important.

For wheels, you could have two choices of: strong, light, or cheap. Light and strong will likely mean forged, which will be $$$. I've bent rotary cast RPF01s.

The best value is likely tires. If you were to "upgrade" to 265/60/20 K02s, they weigh 57 lbs each. The stock sized 20" offroad Wranglers weigh 38 lbs each. That's a 19lb difference. And as the weight is farthest from the axis of rotation, that will be the most meaningful change.

 

An interesting technical exercise that will yield zero quantifiable benefits. Remember to post before and after performance data—empirical and subjective measurement please.

 

all wheels will bend. i have bent almost everyone of my forged wheels. but that’s what’s happens when you ride on 25 series sidewalls


we should change the topic and discuss what’s the most weight you added and have a comparison on MPG

 

This thread makes no sense. You can order a Defender direct from manufacturer with heavy steel wheels and heavy Duratracs. I’ve never met anyone who tries to somehow improve rated MPG as a goal on a truck. If this is interesting to you, just wait for a Rivian, Hummer, or some other EV.