@Landy718 Where are you getting your t-slot from? I've been looking at 8020 site and its a little pricier than others but will probably get most of the stuff there.

 

I've ordered from McMaster as their distribution center is close by and I therefore dont pay an exhorbitant amount on shipping.

8020 is great in that they have such a wide range of options for profile sizes, etc. I mainly use their site for the deflection calculator.

At the moment I'm seeing less than 1mm of deflection with a static 500lb load, and thats not accounting for the gussets I'll have at each of the corners and each of the cross bars.

Gussets will live on the underside so the entire top is flat.

 

I've opted to swap out the roof mount points for double stud brackets, just to ensure that its less likely for torsional forces to effect their security.

Once again, will report back with findings once it's all together. First bits should show up tomorrow.

 

Nice design! I like how it tapers to the roof line. I was going to comment on the mount point as the single L bracket looked to be a weak link but you already noticed that! I would still maybe put a gusset in that brace as well. Were you going to use the aluminum brackets for that?

Thats the only pice of my design not final - the mounts. Lots of options. I am down to either a modified Thule mount/foot design as I have one laying around I've been experimenting with or, more likely, a slightly modified spring hanger I have also been trialing which is 3/16" thick steel and you can get in different dimensions to help account for different heights front to back. The Thule feet would require a 1.5" x 1.5" t-slot crossbar and I ordered a short length of 8020 extrusion and it can fit as noted in the pic below. Benefit is you can use the Thule lock to secure it if you are worried about someone maybe trying to remove it - and you can modify the mount to lower it significantly so it doesn't stick up so high like the stock design. Downside is I prefer the 1.5" x 3" extrusion for the crossbars to have more mounting options but not super important. The trailer spring hangers are super sturdy and can weld in a gusset for extra support if needed. You can also get a spring hangar kit which has the heavy plates included which you can cut down in length as they fit perfect inside the roof rails and you just need to weld a bolt to them to secure the rack. Thats in the pic below with the spring hangers.

 

BTW - one other thing to consider with the feet - if you put a level or any straight edge across the roof rails they are not flat horizontally - meaning the straight edge will angle down and be lower on the outside than the inside. That has to be addressed with the feet because if you mount a flat edge to them the rack will have some space somewhere in the fitment. May not be a big issue - you can let us know. Just something I noticed in my fiddling with the designs. In your plan - you may be able to accommodate that by putting some angled spacers/washers between your double stud bracket and the rack side bars they mount to. That could give you the angle you need on the base of that bracket to sit flush against the roof rails.

 

@NAS437.

I've considered the issue with camber at the feet. I plan to fashion some dense neoprene as a wedge between the foot and the rail, which should help to keep the connection fairly creek free as well as protect the roof, while also dealing with the mounting angle as you describe. I'm sure it will require some tweaking.

 

Update! most parts are in, one box arrived completely empty, so they've had to ship a replacement.

I've 'machined' down the roof rail nuts so they'll fit over a piece of super thin neoprene, trying not to marre the interior surface of the rail while keeping everything tiiiiight.

Tomorrow I hope to be able to get it all together for a dry fit and hopeful initial completion. Also received frontrunner's ski attachment and their mounts for a pelican case that should arrive tomorrow.

Everything's coming up Milhouse!

 

Got the outside rails installed today. I undercut one of the pieces and overcut the other.

It works as is, but I'll have to cut down another rail and fit it properly.

The camber of the LR roof rails, is not an issue as the frame pulls it all together.

 

[QUOTE=Landy718;762095]While I wait on supply from Front Runner to come in, I need to be able to haul sheet goods and boards on top of the truck, so I took it to myself to devise some sort of solution from the local big box store.

Very simply a single 10' piece of green unistrut, with a couple 2" pieces cut off to raise the rail over the arch of the roof, then two 52" pieces cut to form the bars. They're secured in the factory roof rails with unistrut spring nuts.

Pretty simple solution for under $40.”


Where are you located? I have a brand new frontrunner rack I’m trying to offload since I’m switching brands. Fully assembled and never installed so I can’t return it.

 

@Bdcrosswhite
Thanks for the offer, but I've already invested a fair amount into my custom build, and I cant imagine it would be cheap to ship from CO to NY.

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Gotten it mostly assembled, just waiting on some corner pieces from 8020 that will fill out the corners and complete the frame. I'm really happy with it so far. Got the pelican case fitted, so the rear cargo area isnt cluttered with all my must have items. Next up, I'll remove the whole thing and flip it upside down so the gusset plates are on the bottom.