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Finally sourced a current LR shop manual for 4 cylinder Bought it online from UK and downloaded to iPad. (easymanuals.co.uk)
Interestingly, it stated that the preferred method for an oil change was the vacuum method. So I might assume that is what dealers would do. It has great graphics of components and simple process. The Cliff Notes Are - There is a drain port under filter cap which makes for a clean servicing. It states 3 or 4 turns first but not to remove then loosen oil fill cap and remove through dipstick tube before completing removal of oil filter cap and element. There is a bypass valve in the top of the cap that we need to check present and not discarded with filter element.
Trying to see if they have a tool to fit over cap as there isn’t a hex fitting and it does recommend torquing back to 28 nm. They do not list any special tool requirements except their LR extractor So I guess we turn by hand.
I had watched your video and tried to send you a message but I am not very adept with forum tools as yet. Yes it is very similar except the oil filter location and housing are different as is the dipstick. It was a great video by the way. Reading shop manual now on a variety of topics - they are crazy about battery check procedures. Not simple cars anymore. Was trying to find in writing something that stated it was ok to maintain / charge from the posts under hood- my service advisor said yes and I do not see how it would hurt. Funny thing they said don’t exceed 14.8 volts charging-with engine running I read 15v at the terminal coming from the generator as they call it I assume. All our fancy chargers only bulk charge to 14.7v. The statement could have been written in such a way as to be mis-understood.
Finally sourced a current LR shop manual for 4 cylinder Bought it online from UK and downloaded to iPad. (easymanuals.co.uk)
Interestingly, it stated that the preferred method for an oil change was the vacuum method. So I might assume that is what dealers would do. It has great graphics of components and simple process. The Cliff Notes Are - There is a drain port under filter cap which makes for a clean servicing. It states 3 or 4 turns first but not to remove then loosen oil fill cap and remove through dipstick tube before completing removal of oil filter cap and element. There is a bypass valve in the top of the cap that we need to check present and not discarded with filter element.
Trying to see if they have a tool to fit over cap as there isn’t a hex fitting and it does recommend torquing back to 28 nm. They do not list any special tool requirements except their LR extractor So I guess we turn by hand.
Yes, it is preferred from the top, because doing form the bottom requires much effort to remove the undershield and the holes in the shield for your hands are razor sharp -- lots of blood released during my 2K mile initial oil change. Never again. Live and learn.
The filter requires a cap wrench, same as the LR4. LR4 uses Assenmacher JA 19015 -- available on amazon.
I bought the smaller one for my P300 Defender from Assenmacher specialty tools part number JAS6514 (not available from Amazon -- had to order from a tool supply house). A quality tool -- several dollars for sure. Cap wrench has 14 flats. You will need the cap wrench.
The instructions have you loosen the filter cap so air can enter to replace the oil being pulled out by the MityVac.
Last edited by TrioLRowner; 02-20-2021 at 05:26 PM.
I'll ignore that schedule and keep changing it in my garage every 7500 miles with a good quality synthetic oil and OEM filter, just as I was doing with my LR4. Easy, dare I say fun 10-minute job, and safer than waiting 21K miles - even 15K always felt like too long of an interval to me. Not that I don't trust Land Rover's improvements to their engines, but it's my car and I feel better that way. The only difference with the Defender compared to my old LR4 is the plastic cap of the oil filter (you no longer need a funky 89 or 90 mm fluted filter cap socket to remove it, a 27 mm socket and torque wrench will do) and you can still vacuum the old oil from the top of the engine with a manual pump, now from the dipstick pipe that LR wisely (thankfully) decided to reintroduce on its Ingenium engines after going with all-electronic oil gauges for a few years.
Umberto
I just look at the photo of the oil filter cover which Umbertob posted on 9/26/20. It is very different than the one on my P300 2020. Mine has the flats on it and requires a cap tool, the part number which I described previously -- Assenmacher specialty tools part number JAS6514 (not available from Amazon -- had to order from a tool supply house). A quality tool -- several dollars for sure. Cap wrench has 14 flats. You will need the cap wrench.
I went to Seattle Landrover for first change. They were very embarrassed about overfilling the oil. I think they dumped in the P400 amount which is about a quart more. Always had very good luck with them over the 25 years I have been with them. Knowing what I do now I will just suck the oil out and change the filter on my own schedule. Being able to stand up and change oil is really nice for my old knees.
EU automakers are feeling the pinch both financially and compliance-wise. It definitely is a good thing for their books to only be on the hook for a single oil change during the first 50k. And it’s much easier for them to be in compliance with EU green laws when their dealer service departments are disposing of 75% less used motor oil.
Personally, I will change my oil every 5k to 7.5k because that what I believe a good modern engine requires. Older engines, every 3k.
That said, I think automakers moving towards longer and longer intervals is a good thing, even if it is driven by profits... Previously, there was no impetus to find a better solution to engine lubrication beyond oil or a synthetic variant. In fact, utilizing such new technology would probably have cost automakers money. Now there is a need for something completely outside the box, and serious R&D can happen... Or, I would imagine, is happening. We’ll see what we eventually end up with. Maybe some kind of self-repairing, self-perpetuating algae with high-heat lubricating properties... a GMO based on the stuff that lives 6 miles deep, among the boiling gas vents on the bottom of the ocean. Just toss some plant food in your engine every year...
Last edited by TheLittleEngineThatCould; 02-23-2021 at 01:01 PM.
02-20-2021, 01:57 PM
