Folks

Please excuse me for asking what is probably some basic questions - I'm a total towing/camping noob. We purchased a KZ E17 Hatch to tow with our 2020 Defender. Camper is 3,235 dry weight. We had the RV dealer install an EAZ-LIFT hitch. Max gross trailer weight is 15,000 lbs. Max tongue weight 1,500. Plus it's a weight distribution hitch - a Land Rover no no. We also added sway control to the hitch. The other bummer is that the location of the jack on hitch is located such that we had to remove the spare tire from the rear door in order to access the cargo area.

All of this seems contradictory to what I'm reading in other posts. Should we go with or without sway bars and just let the built-in trailer stability assist do its thing?

Bottom line, what hitch combination is working for all you camper enthusiasts out there for a trailer this size, particularly a setup that has enough distance between the hitch and the camper so opening the rear door clears the spare tire? Can anyone ascertain what parts were used in the photo from this dealer site? https://www.landroverparamus.com/202...wing-capacity/

Thanks in advance!
Photo of our first trip out is below.. plus specs on the hitch that was installed by the RV dealer.

 

Our Defender (‘21 XD P400) has spent most of its 10k miles pulling around a 6k lbs boat and 6k lbs travel trailer (fully loaded). We recently completed a 5k road trip from the Midwest to the Wear coast and back - the Defender did great aside from the dreadful gas mileage.

We’re using an electronic sway control from Hayes (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hayes-Sw...1775/312242708). I can confirm that it works, there were a few “events” that it neutralized really quick. Very confident ride, even through the mountains. We’re also using a Curt Echo wireless brake controller and have had some success and some issues - jury is still out.

we are using this draw bar/hitch ball

CURT 45900 Adjustable Trailer Hitch Ball Mount, 2-Inch Receiver, 6-Inch Drop, 2 and 2-5/16-Inch *****, 14,000 lbs

In regards to the issue with opening the rear door while attached to the trailer; we removed the jack near the ball and installed a side mount jack further back. This worked for us and gave us enough access to the back such that I was able to open the door enough to put our dog in.

 

MNDefender

Thank you so much for your detailed and informative reply! I am researching side mount jacks to address the dogs/door issue as well. May I ask what manufacturer/model you're using?

Thanks again - and happy holidays!

Julie

 

We installed the below jack. Seems to work pretty well.

Fulton XLT Powered Drive Trailer Jack - Drop Leg - Side Mount - 22" Lift - 2,500 lbs

 

I wanted to post the solution I found here. With my trailer (enclosed Trailex) I am unable to install a side mounted jack. While looking for an ultra-short jack (unable to find one that will fit below the spare), I ran into a device named "Jack-e-up". While the name seems terrible, the idea is great. I now have one on order.

https://jack-e-up.com

 

An important detail - though your EAZ lift hitch is rated for a max tongue weight of 1500 lbs, the receiver on your Defender is only rated for 820 lbs. You should be fine but check the trailer specs to confirm the dry tongue weight. After you load up, you may want to use a bathroom scale to get a measurement. Youtube has videos on how to do that without smashing your scale. Also, a trip to a CAT scale to get weights with the WD hitch engaged may be wise. For me and my heavy trailer tongue (I tow a 25' Airstream which are notoriously heavy) I only have 450 lbs available for stores in the load space before I hit the Defender's gvwr limit.

Because of the location of the trailer jack, the popular option is to add a roof rack and move your spare to the roof. Others as mentioned above have swapped the center mount jack for a side mount, but that is a function of the trailer design. Your RV dealer should have a recommendation. I would not do is get a longer shank for your hitch. Moving the pivot point away from your Defender's rear axel will affect towing characteristics.

 

Another alternative to the Jack-E-Up is the Ultimate Jack
Although the jack is designed to lift up out of the way when traveling, it can be converted to a removable jack quite simply. With the jack removed there is lots of room to open the back door

And the jack can be easily re-inserted. I modified the top of our jack to remove the built-in handle and replace with a 3/4" nut which I power with my cordless drill.
That way I can still raise/lower when parked at an angle and the jack is close to the spare tire.

Note that with this setup, I'm able to use a hitch that meets the LR sub-7" distance from pin to ball.

 

This is awesome. Can you describe the changes you made to make it removable? Is it just replacing the bolt for the lower foot with a removable pin?

I am also curious how you attached the nut to the top of the jack, so any details you can provide there would be great as well.

 

@Quick The Ultimate Jack comes with a spring-loaded pin that engages with holes in the tube to coarsely set the height, then the center screws to raise/lower.
To make the tube removable, just remove the end stop which would have been here:


The conversion to a hex drive was simple: I drilled out a 1/2" threaded nut which had the correct outside size (3/4") with a 1/2" drill, then cross-drilled and tapped with 1/4-20 thread. Then set screws hold it in place - they jamb into the hole drilled for the (removed) handle to mount to.
I added a bronze bushing and couple of washers to take up the play in the system.

 

Thanks for sharing! I have converted my trailers jack in a similar fashion removing the handle and installing a 1/2 impact socket that I drilled and pinned to the jack shaft. I really like this jack you are using as you can remove it all together for rear door access. I'm ordering one!!