I have bypassed the relay for the 12V socket located on the lower LH side of the trunk, as I'd like constant power to my ARB fridge freezer when on a multi-day trip, without the juice cutting off along with the ignition as Land Rover intended.

The relay that powers off that 12V socket (and that socket alone - I've tested all remaining ones in the car, including front seats, second row sockets, USB ports and AC outlet in the trunk - all of them keep shutting off along with the ignition after jumping, so they are obviously controlled by different relays) is located in the fuse box in the trunk, under the plastic cover on the RH side panel. Yank that cover off, unclip and remove the plastic lid of the fuse box, and gently pull and remove relay R9. Bridge the contacts of the relay with a small piece of insulated electrical wire of decent gauge and two male spade connectors at each end to insert in the female receptacles where the relay used to be. There is also a handy guide attached to the left side of the fuse box, just in case.

I tested the fridge overnight in my garage, no problems. Here are photos of the fuse box, a close-up of the bypassed relay and the relay itself (the contacts to bridge are the larger two - one horizontal and one vertical - opposite each other.)

 

Any plans to increase the amperage of the cargo section 110v outlet? 1.5 amps is a joke.

 

Several years later I'm bumping this old theread. I just did this 'modification' so thank you for the information. Just curious should I be worried about anything with this long term? I dont think Relays are internally fused, and I'm not running a lotta power at all. just some very low powered LEDs and really dont even plan to use it extended time... just a few minutes at at ime but longer than the car will allow without opening the front doors to turn it back on. I used 10Ga wire and just some standard spade connectors.

 

If you are worried couldn't add a fuse to your jumper.