Now it's "squatted" like all the cool kids do. :rolleyes:

OMG....great. Now I can't "un-see" that video. Damn you. :)

robertf pointed out that the trans temp sensor is just a thermal switch and can be permanently grounded to defeat the message on the dash. I love easy and free fixes! Thank you robertf

Can anyone opine on what the occasional 'groan' in this video might be? It seems to come from the left side of the engine bay. Feels like going over a very mild rumble strip. My candidates are EAS pump (but don't think it would be that strong), A/C compressor (has been suspected to be faulty though it does function well and the A/C is working well), or wheel hub. SAI?

I don't have the experience to determine what it is. Hopefully someone here has a good suggestion to run down.



video :

I have something similar to this, works great:

https://www.penntoolco.com/steelman-...7C%20%24164.95

New (used..Thanks Will Tillery!) ABS ECU. Seems to be a known fault when diagnostic reads "XXX sensor shorted to another sensor". Looking into selling the original to a person in the UK who refurbishes them.

Installed two rear air springs (Dunlop). New front drag link. Fuel pump

Found three wires from the BeCM and ABS ECU to the engine ECU that had been snacked on by a mouse at some point in history. Patched in new wires and trouble codes disappeared! Took a while to figure that one out.


New headliner looks great. I put some heat shield material above the spaces in the rear and on top of the sunroof shade. Used a non-foam backed material on the shade to prevent degradation of the foam as it is moved back and forth.

Now to rebuild the EAS valve block (just a bunch of o-rings to replace and screw together.

EAS block rebuilt. Air lines into the block are giving me small headaches so new collets on order. New grill installed. Stereo and subwoofer done. Lug nut and breaker bar and jumper cables ready. Solar panel coming this week (to trickle charge the battery). USB plugs installed on the back of the center cubby and inside the cubby box. She's ready to go.

Your patience is outstanding. That’s allot of items to tick off but I know how badly you wanted a P38 and now it’s Walt’s P38! Lol….

Thanks. It looks great. The ridiculous system of inserting the air lines into the collets and o-rings is about to be replaced. I bought another valve block from a scrap yard and will have it tapped to accept 1/4 mnpt threaded fittings with compression fittings to attach the air lines. I'm done messing around with leaky air lines. What a lousy design this is.

I replaced the EAS valve block with one that I had tapped in order to use compression fittings. The stock system of collets and o-rings to seal the tubes inside the valve block is ridiculously bad and I am pretty darn sure the stock system is the reason why the vast majority of people give up on the EAS and switch to springs.

When those tubes don't have a good seal the valve block the compressor runs more frequently if not all the time in an attempt to replace the lost air. That burns out the motor and those things are $350 new (but rebuildable). I knew it was a matter of time before this happened to me and I was determined to find a permanent solution.

Fortunately a post on rr.net from a guy in Australia described how he drilled and tapped his valve block to accept a threaded fitting. A bit of teflon tape and my EAS system is now air tight.

first photo is the stock collet and o-ring system. The brass fittings are the compression fittings which are significantly more reliable easier to remove when needed.