The truck was sinking if left for more than a day. I removed the self leveling relay to identify which corner(s) were not holding air properly and found the driver side rear to be the culprit.

- 6mm x 4mm nylon air hose with 350lbs burst pressure at McMaster Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/air-lines/s...od~6mm/id~4mm/
- STC8580 connector https://www.roverparts.com/suspensio...arts/STC8580G/
- sharp blade

Replacing the entire line is pointless since it is housed in a sheath of heat resistant material which runs the length of the frame along the driver side. The leak appeared to be at the connection to the air spring so I simply spliced in new hose for the final two feet and made sure to leave myself enough slack to get a hold of it when I need to next time.

Installed new stereo amplifier as the final piece of the sound system. I now have:

JVC KD-X370BTS head unit
New mid/woofers in each door - https://www.newark.com/mcm-audio-sel...09?ost=55-2970
new drivers in the sub box - Goldwood GW6028
sub woofer amp - Blaupunkt AMP1500M
amplifier for the doors - Planet Audio 1200AC1200.4

For about $450 is sounds quite good.

A loss of coolant without any temperature problems turned out to be a blown head gasket at the rear of the right (passenger NAS) bank. Fluorescent dye made it clear. The HG had been done at 87k in 2004 (now at 145k). What makes a head gasket go is a complete mystery to me. This truck was perfect all summer long running 195 deg at most. As soon as it got cold, it started seeping coolant onto the top of the bell housing.

Everything was going along just fine until the dip stick tube would not come out of the block. OK, I'll just work around it.

Not so fast, the Rover gods replied.

While trying to put the driver side exhaust manifold back into place the tube snapped, basically flush with the block. Damn! I tried to tap it, insert a bolt, and use a slide hammer to pull it out. That yielded 1.5" of travel and a tube that was even more stuck than ever.

I had to drop the oil pan, tap the bottom of the tube, and drill out the first couple of inches from the top. Yeah, drilling into the block is a very unnatural act. The slide hammer on the bolt coming out of where the oil pan should be did the rest of the work. What a major pain in the ass.

All in all I can say that I learned a lot doing my first head gasket. Other than the stupid dip stick tube it was fairly straight forward. Cleaning everything up is a big job but I am hopeful that the extra work and attention to detail will pay off in a long lasting job. The truck started up on the first try and is running strong and smooth.

I also took the time to replace the engine mounts as well as obvious things like plugs, wires, coil packs and hard to reach coolant hoses. Had the valve covers dipped and painted them with a matte black ceramic coating. You don't see them much on a Bosch engine w/ SAI, but they look nice anyway.

The Rover gods did smile on me however. I suspected my '97 Disco was going to need the same. Nope, just some much needed attention to coolant hose connections/clamps.

chasing a bit of a driveline vibration when the driveline is NOT stressed. In other words when I am accelerating, no problem. When decelerating, no problem. Only when cruising at a relatively constant speed does it vibrate. Definitely coming from driveline and not steering.

I changed the front output bearing of the transfer case however that did nothing to improve the situation. Ujoints in driveshafts feel tight/good but that is next. (probably should have been first)

Shocks were original and way overdue. New Terrafirmas installed which helped smooth some of those NYC potholes.

Repaired left side blower motor by replacing the control board.

I presume years of water ingress through the pollen filter opening had been the culprit.

I found some information regarding the motor control board, aka: heater resistor and was lead to believe a Citreon Xsara (as well as other models) used the same part. This is correct.

I ordered this part from the ebay seller:
HEATER RESISTOR CITROEN BERLINGO MK1 / PEUGEOT PARTNER BLOWER FAN 1996>2015
https://www.ebay.com/itm/153186756109

and followed R&R instructions from this RSW video:
Range Rover P38 - Blower Motor Repair

replaced front right height sensor.

Bought a Nanocom to keep up with all the annoyances. Strong dollar created a 15% discount.

replaced left front height sensor just because I had it
- had the rear drive shaft re-built and balanced. still chasing a drive line vibration. Only happens when the truck is maintaining speed above 50 MPH. Any acceleration or deceleration (adding throttle or removing throttle) makes the vibration go away.
- replaced 1 yr old radiator because I somehow buggered the threads on the temp sensor near the bottom when I attempted to replace the sensor. I could not have been more careful (metal sensor into a plastic radiator housing) yet somehow I messed it up. Super frustrating.

Replaced radius arm bushings. Ride quality is improved and the vibration is less pronounced. Panhard rod is next.

Installed new upstream O2 sensors.

I have read through this thread a couple times. I absolutely love your method, attention to detail, tenacity, and perseverance. I whine like a baby on my thread, and you have simply taken a step back and evaluated with each setback. Kudos to you, and keep being an inspiration.

Post a couple recent pics of the whole machine to keep things in perspective.

Thanks. I'm watching your thread as well given the significant crossover between the D2 and P38. It has been a fun project but I will say that the truck is sometimes a little rude given how much love, time, and $$ I have put into it.

New MAF fixed up a P0734 (which is a "gear 4 incorrect ratio").
Also installed a new purge valve to clear a P0440 (I think this will come back when it gets warm as it did last year. new gas cap already installed)
New engine temp sensor seems to have chased away a P0126 (some sort of check between upper and lower temp sensor to evaluate the thermostat operation). However now the temp gauge on the dash is non-functional. (not that it worked all that well anyway).
Re-set adaptive values. LT fuel trim went from 12+ to 2.x so I am happy with that. Gas mileage doesn't seemed to have changed but the cats might live a bit longer.

Finally got all the codes cleared and put enough miles on it to get it inspected.