Well I put fuel in a couple of the plug holes and got nothin. Getting spark to all the plugs too. Pretty confused, can the timing have changed on a trip to the gas station? I'm gonna buy a fuel pressure gauge monday. Trying to avoid taking it to a mechanic but its look eminent. Any other things to check?
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Dream 50R

 

Has your vacuum advance hose come off?
You can check fuel pressure with a mechanical tire gauge. (the dial type)
If you have good fuel PSI (~35 psi) then you can remove the spark plugs making sure your wires dont get mixed up, crank it over for a min or so and then smell for gas.
No gas smell then no working injectors.
Then we will have to address that IF that is the case.

 

Did you play with distributor? Or did you try to pull out rotor inside the distributor?See if you can turn the body of the distributor by hand.
Here is what you do to check for timing.Pull first cylinder spark plug.Leave it out , than go in the truck and crank it until you hear poof , this is when first cylinder is in Top Dead Center.When you hear poof you stop.Then you open the distributor cap and check if rotor is facing towards the contact for first cylinder.I suppose you didn't mess wires , and if you did just follow the picture.Firing order is 1 8 4 3 5 6 7 2 .

 

Okay I can get a tire gauge today. The auto part store is closed. Is the hose you are talking about the one that connects to the distributor?
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starcraft 2 replays

 

Jumping in late but the rules for an engine are
1. Spark
2. Fuel
3. Air
Now playing on the background a little.
1. you have Spark
2. You are Checking for fuel
3. Did you just take OUT the air filter and see if it is PLUGGED or something got in the MAF that is telling the brain box the wrong information.
Now another thought is when you HOLD The key to spin it over you have SPARK BUT maybe when you release the key you DO NOT HAVE SPARK that would put it on the ignition switch.
I do not know if you can hot wire the coil like we do in the race car so you have current to the coil that will cause the plugs to fire when you release the key.

Now this is 100% off the wall but LOOK in the distributor cap and see if there is a fine crack or carbon track. This was a BIG problem with the 3500 rover back in the day.

 

Okay so let me start off by thanking everyone for their input on my problem. Spike, I cranked the engine a couple times and took a preasure reading form the rail with the tire gauge and could only get a very low measure about 8psi/0.5 bar. I will try another tire gauge and see if it makes a difference. I took some pictures of the distributor and while doing so noticed that the part the vacuum hose connects to was very loose and appears to have a screw missing (see the photo with the red circle). Georgep I don't see anything blocking the intake path. A&H, I don't seem to get any movement from the distributor itself, I never removed the rotor and have been careful not to mix up the plug wires. I also took a video of me trying to start the engine. Sorry for the delay in postings but I work late in the afternoon and am in Hawaii. Pic1, Pic2, Pic3, Pic4.

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Chrysler Sebring (sedan) picture

 

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O and I double checked the fuel rail pressure with a stick type gauge and got the same reading aprox 8psi
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Toyota Crown Comfort LPG specifications

 

i had the same issue with my 95 disco i replaced the( ignition module Amplifier) the one down beside the rad tucked in beside the coil that fixed my problem
i was getting spark but it was too weak to fire
just my 2 cents
graham

 

I think 8 psi is not enough , should be more than 30 psi .Looks like your fuel pump is done.Start to look for the replacement IMHO.

 

I checked pressure again today and if I let the relay click on and the pump run once I get almost no pressure, but if I do it two or three times it will register at aprox. 8psi... I'll check on Demonlarry's thread and see how his pump situation is going.
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Kawasaki GA