Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

1995 starting / running problem

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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 10:06 PM
  #31  
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well I performed all the tests I could by my self (home alone today). Everything voltage wise checked out which seems to point at the ignition amplifier. Tomorrow I will have some help and can check and see how the spark is at the plugs. Looking now to see the best/least expensive place to pick up a new ignition module... any suggestions? I see this one appears to be the cheapest, but might be a little sketchy. Unfortunately for me I live on an island and don't really have access to a "U-pull it" or something similar. A friend does have a broken 1996 discovery he said I can take parts from but from what I gather the ignition systems are different on the two.
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Last edited by Henrici; Jan 30, 2011 at 11:53 AM.
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 08:45 PM
  #32  
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Hell for $50 I would buy that ignition module.
There is a relocation kit at AtlanticBritish.com for the ignition module.

And yes, the '96 and newer trucks have electronic ignition.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 09:24 PM
  #33  
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Yeah I think I'm gonna order it. I pulled a plug out and tried getting it to spark but couldn't. I was getting spark from the coil to the distributor though. so I'll order new plugs, wires and the amplifier module. I remember reading a discussion about the best distributor cap for this vehicle. You have any advice on that?

Oh and the module has already been relocated.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 09:43 PM
  #34  
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The best cap and rotor are OEM.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2010 | 05:36 PM
  #35  
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Just got the amplifier module in the mail today (see pic below). Replaced all the spark plugs yesterday and about half were covered in un-burnt fuel. Probably going to replace the amplifier tomorrow. I am wonder if there is a good way to clear that gas out of the cylinders? Figured I'd unplug the fuel pump relay and crank it a few times, sound good? Name:  IMG00151-20100823-1219.jpg
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Last edited by Henrici; Jan 30, 2011 at 11:54 AM.
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Old Aug 23, 2010 | 06:03 PM
  #36  
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That always worked for me but the easy way is do it with the plugs OUT and the fuel pump off the gas will be blown out and should be ready to start when you hook everything back up.
PS NO SMOKING or BOOM!!
 
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Old Aug 23, 2010 | 11:01 PM
  #37  
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You may have diluted the oil with fuel which is not good. I would change the oil once you have it running again.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Disco4meplz
You may have diluted the oil with fuel which is not good. I would change the oil once you have it running again.
Very good point.


As for the flooded engine, you can also leave the spark plugs out and let it sit for a few hours and the gas will evaporate.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 05:20 PM
  #39  
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Well I just replaced the ignition module and am going to pull the plugs and try to get that gas out. I have a set of magnecor wires coming that should be here by the end of the week. I pulled the IACV last week and cleaned it out, not sure if it's working or not but either way it's currently "open".

Thanks for the advice on getting the gas out and changing the oil soon. I figured I would change the oil and all the fluids for that matter once/if *cough* *cough* she starts up. The truck has about 112k on it so I should probably start working on a 120k service anyway. Any links to threads about advice on oil selection or that service? It's pretty warm here all the time never below 60 but also not above 100 either so thicker oil? Thanks again everybody!!
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Last edited by Henrici; Jan 30, 2011 at 11:55 AM.
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 05:23 PM
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For those temps either a 15w-40 or a HD-30 will be perfect for your truck.
Shell Rotella comes in both those weights and is readily available and is cheap and a GREAT oil.
That is what I use and I change it every 5,000 miles.
I currently have Rotella HD-30 in my truck.
 
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