You will NOT have anti lock brakes so your wheels WILL lock up and skid on ice and snow if you do not know how to drive on ice or snow.

 

Or they will learn quickly how to.....

A majority of the Rovers I scrounge parts off are roll-overs.

 

I do luckly isnt does here often

 

Have some of you pulled the ABS pump off? Just got my 98 this week and the ABS is disabled. I am used to old VW buses with out ABS and have on many occasions had to STAND on the brakes and pump them.

 

There have been many who obsolete the ABS modulator and just run a standard brake distributor type of thingy thing.
But why when you can just remove the ABS pump fuse and be done?

 

I REMOVED MY FUSE AND IT WORKS FINE AS LONG AS BRAKES ARE GOOD. BETTER TO HAVE NORMAL BRAKES THAN A MALFUNCTIONING abs AND NO BRAKES.

NO NEED TO RIP ALL THAT STUFF OUT UNLESS THERE ARE OTHER COMPELLING REASON LIKE LEAKS AND SUCH.

Just remember how heavy it is and high Center of gravity contributes to rollovers if sudden directional changes are made on slick surfaces.

 

The modulator can be removed. Since the modulator controls brake bias you'll need a proportioning valve and all the plumbing from the master cylinder to the new valve. Not impossible and a good friend mine on another forum did just that a few years ago. It's what I would do with mine if I got tired of playing with it because why push fluid through something as large as the modulator when it can be simplified. A flaring tool will be needed that can do bubble flares. Commonly it's a 60/40 split but if you want to dial the brakes in further there are adjustable valves. One caveat; my buddy was an extraordinary mechanic.

Good luck Duckk......

 

after looking at the plumbing in the manual on the ABS brake unit I will leave it in there! LOL! Question. the previous owner just unplugged the ABS unit in the engine compartment, is this OK and should I also make sure he pulled the fuse too?
thanks
Erick

 

Yeah, I would remove the fuse in the engine bay. Have you seen the sticky in the "Tech Section"? Like the old GM OBD1 CEL the ABS system can give you blink codes that narrow down the problem. It's usually just one of the wheel sensors that's too far from the reluctor rings and the blink codes will point to which wheel it is. Worth a shot before disconnecting.

 

The main problem for me is that I have to have functioning ABS to pass the annual state inspection. It is a parked inspection so there is no driving of the vehicle BUT, Im afraid that with the fuse in and the ABS light off, that the ABS will at up for the very short trip from the line into the inspection bay. Im going to get it inspected during lunch today so Ill let yall know how it goes.

But that brings me to the second issue. I would like to fix the problem if I can but the ?ABS warning light on the dash is not illuminated when the fuse is in so cant troubleshoot it or hook it up to a diagnostic device. Hence the reason its getting a false positive. I fear the only remedy would be a full system inspection, and given what the technical manual has on that looks like a bear.