Sounds like fuel pump to me.......won't be long now.

Seems that this forum implicates one device, like the VSS, and then anytime somebody has a problem it's that device.......VSS has nothing to do with idle speed while parked.

 

I am thinking fuel pump too. Tomorrow i will go back with a multimeter and tool box and pull that access plate and see what i have.
Its just amazing. I parked a ford explorer 2 months ago to drive the rover. Went to move the explorer and the fuel pump was dead. I have to fix it to sell it.

Now its rhe fuel pump on the rover. At least i dont have to drop the tank on the rover!

 

Yep, my bad. I didn't read carefully enough. ihscouts is of course, correct.

 

Airtex E3270
NEW GLOBAL AUTOMOTIVE FUEL PUMP & STRAINER KIT GM VEHICLES GA3270 | eBay
No cheaper way to fix your pump.

 

Wow. Thats the same unit on advanced discout auto parts for 70 dollars

 

I paid $90 at NAPA......

Wring it out and find out. I'll bet you find a brush is about to jump ship.

I don't know about being correct, it's where I would start looking based on past experience.

 

Well went back this morning armed to the teeth with tools and it fired right up. Drove it home with no problems.

I am going to order that fuel pump from ebay and go ahead and replace it.
Then i will look to see if there is an inline fuel filter somewhere and replace it with something readily available locally.

The one thing i know for shure was there was good spark on both banks and the fuel rail was dry. So a new pump amd filter will be the first step.

Then i will attack the relay, fuses and sensors. Since this is my secondary mode of transport i can take my time and try to do it medthodically.

 

The fuel filter is just inside the right rear wheel. I would replace that at the same time as the pump. It might be a little rusty. ;^)

 

Well It's done it again. As usual when it won't start I'm by myself and can't check the pump to see if it is working.

The fuel pump is really quiet. I have the carpet and rubber pad pulled back, and the plate off the top convering the pump.

Even when it's running I cant hear it - I have to lay my hand on it to feel the the pump working.

So when I get it home again, it will be the pump and fuel filter. For that price I can't go wrong!

 

Check the connector at the pump. You will most likely see the power feed has started to melt the connector and turn it brown. A clear indication the pump has been going south for some time now. Also check the connector inside the drivers rear wheel well, it connects to the harness that runs the fuel pump. The pump harness itself isn't but a few feet long, enough to get from the drivers wheel well to the pump.

Rovers North sells the non AEL complete assembly for $100 if you find the plastic housing on yours is deteriorating. It's their ProLine brand, a rebadged AllMakes.

A word of caution when working with the fuel pump. Be certain to check the polarity of the new pump with the old, in some instances they are reversed and you must swap the wires in the plastic connector. I looked at a truck for a friend after he used a pump from a Town Car to replace his pump. He swore up and down it was right but the truck wouldn't run. I took the cap off the tank and could hear it gurgling back. I actually liked the pump he used though, has a metal fitting with a nice barb to hold the hose on, unlike the E3270 with it's tapered nub.

Another word of caution. Make damn sure the tail and of the hose clamp is not even close to the electrical connectors where they plug into the pump. Use common sense.