If anyone has ever had their regulator lock up, or pop as you roll down the window, I have a pretty good fix.

The method of getting to the regulator should be already known or it may be found in the RAVE. This idea is an improvident on an idea already covered in one of these forums.

The cause of the popping as the widow come down is an unused mounting hole on the regulator's slide. That is the piece that mounts to the window. You will see that the elongated mounting holes that are on each end of that slide allows the 8mm bolts that hold it to be left in place. You just have to loosen the bolts and the slide the "slide" to the right to get the bolts to slip through the larger side of the holes.

The left arm of the regulator (on the drivers side front door) has the plastic roller that gets eaten up because it has to slide past the unused hole on the slide mentioned above. Once the plastic roller is destroyed, the remaining post with the integrated cap will catch in the unused hole and in my case stopped the motor dead causing the motor to break the weld holding the regulator together.

Please note that if anyone finds this very useful, please let me know and I will post some pictures.

THE FIX --- starting with the post clear of any remaining roller, you can get two nylon washers from your local hardware store and one cir-clip to retain them on the post. One nylon washer must be just big enough to fit over the post - MINUS THE THICKNESS OF THE SECOND NYLON WASHER. the first must be cut by dykes and it can then be slipped over the post. This washer must also be no larger than the opening of the slide as it will be sliding partly on the outside of the slide. (this also makes for a smooth roll as it aids in supporting the window)

The second washer must be the same size as the inside of the slide (1 inch I think) and just big enough to be placed on top of the first washer and now should be flush with the cap on the post. At this point of course the unit will not stay together on it's own. This is the purpose of the cir-clip.

The original idea I found was to use boiling water to place a nylon washer over the head of the post - but that left a wobbly washer and still did not prevent the metal post head from getting stuck on the unused mounting hole. Also the tiny thickness of the cir-clip in my idea could also cause friction as it passes the above-mentioned hole.

THE MOUNTING HOLE FIX--- I used an old car for sale sign to mix some JB weld on then placed the slide (cleaned and with the slide opening up) on top of the JB weld mix letting the mixture fill the middle, unused mounting hole. After the necessary time to dry, I sanded the inside of the slide till the hole was smooth and would no longer be a catch for the roller as it passed over it. The for sale sign made a good support for the back and I just cut the rest off.

I now have a perfect working and smooth window. It should last for a while also.

Hope this can be of use to others and let me know if pictures are needed.

 

I've fixed mine a number of different ways. I've had do it a total of 6 times on two trucks.

I just did one yesterday. I got the nylon washers but I ground down the rivet head on the other side and used a punch to knock it out. I slipped the washer on and tapped the pin back in. It's a really tight fit so I wasn't worried about it popping back out but I did a spot of JB weld just in case. Then I just greased the track. Works great.

I also one with a piece of square plastic and a counter sunk machine screw. I noticed that even the wheel does more sliding than it does rolling. So this worked good too. Lots of grease.

 

6 times? 2 trucks? Did you notice that unused hole on all the slides or am I just unlucky? I did not get the one washer to last very long. Just continued to catch on that pesky hole.
Hey my truck and yours are twins - you have the fun version I have the city version.
Did you have fun getting all the leaks fixed? Where do you start?

 

No doubt there are many, many Discovery owners with this generic design problem which Rover had never intended to fix.

Maybe you guys can do a "how to" picture series, then when some of us have worked around some other, more pressing, design flaws we can fix the jammed window "irregulators"

 

They cannot find a way to get them to leak oil...

 

That's hilarious. And true.

I should have taken pictures. The sticky does need updated. It had pics at one time now they are gone I think.

 

Yea three windows each. This one had the pleasure of a broken ecu and a non functioning switch. I took the switch apart and cleaned the contacts. I also tweaked the little brass contact bars to be sure they contacted square instead of on the angle they were. When I fixed the circuit board and the switch and the regulator I now have all four windows working. ..for now. It seems the regulator wheels are "wear" items. I just accept they have to be replaced. Hopefully we all have made them better.

Leak free isn't easy. I did my swivels. My valve covers. Transfer case. Intake seals. Power steering and oil cooler lines. I now see I have some seepage on the rear main seal. If it never hits the ground it doesn't count right? Haha.

My truck used to look like that. Running boards and everything. I wish my paint was as nice.

 

Still laughing....

When I planned to buy my first vehicle in 1964 and approached my grandfather for a loan for half of the money he said: "On one condition - you do not buy any British-made vehicle - they have not yet learned how to make "a wheel properly round" and I asked him what he meant, and he said: "their machines can not cut a shaft or a hole perfectly concentric so their vehicles forever leak oil". That was fifty years ago.