So, I have the new to me ECU & green box for my Disco, but cannot seem to find a Britt shop in NW PA area to install it. Does anyone know of reputable one in the Buffalo, Cleveland, Akron/Canton, or Pittsburgh area? I've used one in eastern PA (Lancaster to be exact), but that's like a 10 hour round trip for a couple hours of repairs. Thanks.

 

So why aren't you doing this yourself?

Disconnect battery, disconnect boxes, unmount boxes (easy), reconnect, remount, hold the hood alarm switch down while connecting battery, start motor.

IF you get high idle with new boxes turn motor off, disconnect IAC, turn ignition switch to pos II, turn switch off, reconnect IAC and turn ign. switch to pos II, rinse repeat two more times with IAC disconnected/connected, start motor. It's that easy, like breathing. It takes me all of a whopping twenty minutes including the IAC.

I mean it's up to you if you want to spend money or get involved in what makes a Rover tick. The only thing different that a garage will do is connect to the ECU and reset the box to newborn to learn the IAC position which is one flick of a button.

 

Thanks for the education... Although I did think I needed to have the computers installed by a Britt Shop as the computer had to be set to the vehicle, I didn't know the process to get rid of the high idle from replacing the IAC I did a month ago was that uncomplicated. Perhaps the -38 code I am told the ECU is showing on the shops scan tool could be my lack of understanding of how to reset the IAC? I guess the other question I had with doing it myself would be the key fob. Isn't the fob function part of the "Green Box" alarm ECU?

 

Uh no, -38 has nothing to do with the IAC. If you remember back to your conversation with Tom it's either the ECU not correlating the air temp sensor signal correctly hence your reason for replacing the ECU.......or in fact the ATS is haywire.

This is cut and paste right from the Rave;

HANDSET INITIALISATION
NOTE: New handsets are supplied in pairs.
If a new handset is required, it will require
initialisation to the ECU using the
following procedure:
1. Starting conditions: ignition off, doors unlocked,
bonnet switch depressed.
2. Carry out instructions 3. to 9. within 8 seconds.
3. Switch ignition ON.
4. Switch ignition OFF.
5. Lock doors.
6. Unlock doors.
7. Release bonnet switch.
8. Switch ignition ON.
9. Switch ignition OFF.
If alarm is correctly accessed, horn will sound and
LED will light. It is now possible to programme two
handsets of correct frequency to vehicle alarm ECU.
This must be carried out within two minutes.
10. Press and hold down button on first handset until
dash LED flashes.
11. Repeat instruction 10. for second handset.
12. The LED will extinguish if both handsets have
been initialised correctly.

I realize you do not have a new handset but the new 10AS will make your fob appear new since it's not initialized to it. Try it, if it fails use your key to set the alarm until you can take it to a shop. Simple enough.

 

Thanks for your input!! Yep, remember the conversation with Tom. ATS on the UG still reads the correct ambient temp in the morning +/- 2 degrees, but the scan tool when hooked to the ECU it reflects -38 which was found when I tried to address the high idle issue after replacing the IACV & TPS. I was told I needed to replace the computer at that time. When I was searching for the correct ECU for my model, Paul Grant said I needed to replace the alarm ECU with the ECU out of the same vehicle which I do have. Tried the fob steps you provided which apparently do not work on my model D1 and had it set at the Britt shop about 5 hours from here when I was in Lancaster a few months ago. Going to try the steps you provided for the high idle with the plugging & unplugging of the IAC in the morning, and hope that at least makes that better for the time being & deal with the rest till I go to DC next month.