Calipers:
I recently changed my brake pads and found that my calipers were pretty pathetic. The seals on most of them were popping out of their place, the pistons had blotchy spots of black on them, and you could tell dirt had already passed the seal, and overall I have to say they looked pretty bad. I sprayed the pistons with brake cleaner (did not have spare brake fluid on hand) and black drips of something started falling. So I think the calipers need a rebuild.

Rotors: I also noticed my rotors were VERY thin, so I checked the minimum rotor thickness and measured my rotors. Ehhh..barely passed and I mean BARELY. Since I was thinking about rebuilding the calipers anyways why not replace the rotors right?

I've looked at pricing from these places
Roversnorth.com
$100 for FRONT w/ pads [for both]
$ 90 for REAR w/ pads [for both]

Britishpacific.com
Rotors:
$ 70 for FRONT w/o pads but OEM [for both]
$ 78 for REAR w/o pads but OEM [for both]
Caliper Rebuild:
$ 54 for FRONT w/ piston and seals [for both]
$ 54 for REAR w/pistons and seals [for both]

Motorcarsltd.com
$ 74 for FRONT w/o pads [for both]
$ 94 for REAR w/o pads [for both]

Vented or Solid rotors? (heard vented are terrible for off road)

Should I keep the piston and just replace the seals or get the new piston and seals all together? Caliper seal kits are like $12 each caliper is why I ask.

I might as well replace the cotter pins eh? I can't find the springs that the pins go through, the ones on mine were all broken off and just sort of hanging there.

Any way to clean the caliper so it doesn't look...rusty and nasty?

 

You could clean the calipers and paint them to purty dem up a bit. If your rotors are within min specs, then leave them for now and in about 15k miles I would plan a complete front axle brake job. New rotors, pads, rebuild and paint or replace calipers, all hardware, brake lines and hoses.

I see no problem with vented...as long as you clean after you offroad. Vented are great, and I would run them for all offroad except for nasty mudding. Others may think otherwise, but I say it doesn't matter. Cross-drilled in my book is a different story. I won't run cross-drilled rotors, but I will do crossdrilled brake lines...http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...&products_id=1

 

This is a joke right? haha

I read the reviews, one guy says.

"WOW! These are amazing, after installing them the BMW driver I hit and I couldn't believe how fast I slowed down from 80 KMH!"

The reviews are hilarious

 

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9985EBC.cfm

 

Keep in mind that "vented" refers to the vents inside the rotor and they are only on D2's. D1's have solid rotors. They can be slotted, crossdrilled and dimpled, but not vented. They are too thin.

That said, I swapped mine out for the slotted/dimpled on front and cross drilled on the back. The fronts were more, but stopping power after getting off the highway is much improved.

For the springs, look for the brake hardware kit on roverparts.com. It will all be there. I would re-build all of your calipers, add new rotors (with pads) and be ready for wheel bearings, but for sure re-pack them. This job is a toughie to perform. Not a simple bolt on, you should get a good version of Rave so you can see what is involved. You have to pull the axles on the rear to get the rotors..

 

Yes, kalecoauto.com has some funny stuff.

Did not know this. Good info to have. I do like dimpled, just not crossdrilled.

 

yeah, crossdrilled can retain mud, but slotted and dimpled do well at shedding. Slotted are even better for water if the slots go all the way to the edge of the rotor..

 

Sounds good, I think I will buy the complete EBC one hilltoppersx linked me too. I hear EBC is a pretty darn good brand, now all I need to do is make some more moolah!

When you say rebuild the calipers do you mean the entire thing (pistons and seals?)

 

There are two kinds or kits. A reseal kit and rebuild kit. A reseal kit is often called a rebuild kit, but only replaces the seals and piston boot/dust cover. The rebuild kit will do the seals, piston boot/dust cover and the piston. Sometimes you will have an option for phenolic or metal pistons. Alot of times, you have to buy the pistons seperate from the seals and boot/covers. Usually, to rebuild, I remove the piston using shop air SLOWLY until it pops out. Clean everything with brake parts cleaner inside and out. Remove and replace the seals, install the old/new piston, then the boot/cover. Tape off the piston, cover/boot, contact points and brake line attachment points. Paint to desired color using high temp paint. Untape after dry and install. Bleed thouroughly.

Be aware, I may have missed a step, but that is going by memory and not manufacture specific.

 

I would consider this kit... http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/AEU1547.cfm . If the seals look bad, just re-seal and clean up your pistons. If the pistons were pitted, get the piston kit, if not, just clean them up real good. Mine were caked pretty bad, but cleaned up and the seal kit worked great for me..

PS, I love my EBC's. The PO had Midas do brakes 9 months before I bought it. I was on metal within a week. These things eat brake pads.