IIRC RAVE says 212 or 215.

 

I looked it up....... alrighty, I get 212 for every engine except the 4.0 (no temps listed) on coolant temp or parked with fuel temp above 158, coolant above 230. So, 220 is possible (but not normal/usual) the condenser fans should be running to bring the temp down while tooling through city traffic. IF that is not happening then there is a problem Houston. Sorry about the confusion on high temp but I don't use a UG.

 

I wasn't being a wise guy, really wanted to know why because we all have our ways of making magic with these trucks. Believe it or not this was my first all aluminum motor and I learned the hard way my first year. Bad fan clutch led to a split expansion tank that a year later took out the head gaskets but not in the usual spots near a coolant port but dead nuts in the middle of the heads. Just an exhaust leak, no drama. Shaved the heads at a new shop in town and learned another important fact, check well for tooling marks - gouges. I had one other episode of hg change after again having the heads mirror shaved once more by a shop that's been around with a rep for solid machining. No more of that.....yada yada yada. I'm worried if I go too low with cooling that I'll loose mileage, not atomizing fuel as well. The stock FI are like fire hose nozzles, not the greatest pattern for fuel mileage but dump it in buckets for the low down numbers, keep the A/F ratio on the rich side when wheeling.

Have you squirted any motors?

 

I did not take it that way at all. The points you are making are very valid. I took it like you were picking my brain, as to why, and just was telling how I feel about these engines, and a little of my background. I have owned many aluminum engines, but were all Acura, Honda, Lexus and were new and never really had to do much on them except maintenance(wifes vehicles). I grew up in the big cid muscle car era, and usually always had a fast motorcycle until first child was born,1983, then no more motorcycle.
I would love to be able to find a good 4.6 to build in my spare time, not so much to build a race engine, but spend time on the reliability aspect, like balancing the engine, of course tophat liners, maybe 3 angle valve job, a little porting and port matching. I don't want to increase compression or big cam, per say, to stay within the engine control parameters.
Anyway Cheers,

 

I haven't heard that term, please educate me.

 

We have allot in common, except I kept the bike and gave up drinking.......

I'm a Chevy guy too. Just bought a 94 Saturn SC2 for $50 because it had a broken timing chain..... lots of ideas spinning around in my head. Gonna be a cool little skate when I get done with it........ anyways...... I've had so many pre 70's vehicles I can't possibly get them all in this space. My Scouts (80 and 800A) became what drives my passion for Rovers after a few Jeep CJ's that got in the way. Still want to find a decent Rover Series IIA 88 - because their simple. I like simple.

Mega Squirt. FI/timing - realtime data-logging, engine tuning. All of the things you listed with complete control over what and how the engine reacts. Nothing more than control over your motor and any mods you make. Tuning it through hardware/software and can be free as in build your own or you can by off the shelf - MS3Pro would be a start there.