OK another quick question, can the whole hub/rotor and stub axle assembly be removed together? or do I have to take the hub/rotor off and then the stub axle separately. And for Jason what is the reason for saying not to remove the shims? something I really need to figure in is that if I can do a temporary "quick fix" job to hold me over until the temperature drops a bit and I can get a few days in a row to take the truck off the road without it being a big problem (maybe a month from now max) then I can do the rebuild then. would this provide me with that temporary fix? or do you think I am going to run into more problems?

 

Unfortunatly, the hub/rotor does have to be removed to get to the stub axle bolts. Theoretically, you could remove the spindle with the stub axle and hub/rotor still on. But I don't know if it would be better to leave the axleshaft attached and pull it at the same time, or remove the drive member and remove the axleshaft seperatly.

Definitly not going to say it's ok or acceptale, but I removed some shims and drove for probably 3-4 months. It did end up getting back as bad as it originally was, but bought a little time.

 

ok and for the last and final question, what size and how many shims are usually found on an original pin? I don't know the history of the truck so I can't say it is in original condition but what should I expect to see in there?

 

I had probably about 5 shims totalling around .055". I started by removing a .010, but ended up putting it back and removing a .020.

 

what kit should I get?

 

do a search with google. There are lots of suppliers... autopartswarehouse.com seems to be the cheapest. $50 per side.

 

http://www.rovahfarm.com/DiscoIAxles.htm

'Bout the cheapest I have found(one I went with). If you go with the full kit, ask for a stub axle gasket also, some reason the kit didn't come with it.

 

um, not trying to cross vehicle brands, but, my old VW bus had "Death Wobble"... In Motorcycling it's called "Tank Slap"... have you tried a steering damper? Cured it in my bus, and cures it on motorcycles... providing your steering system is in good shape.

 

I think tom is going to jump in here and agree with me but a steering damper does not cure a death wobble it just absorbs it until the shock wears out. In my old jeep I would spend the $50 about every 8 - 12 months for a new steering damper to cover my death wobble, it did a great job but obviously wasn't the proper fix, you would feel it starting to wear and know you have about a week or two before it would need to be replaced again. I think the biggest problem with that solution is that while you are covering up the real problem it is slowly getting worse and may become a serious safety issue if the real problem completely breaks. but yes the steering damper was replaced about 8 or 9 months back. I may have worn a soft spot on it and may need to replace it again as well now.

 

I didn't take the time to read the whole thread. but, that's why I included that last line.

even though everything in the front end of my Bus was new, it would do it horribly. Steering damper, good as new. Just a suggestion.