so I spent the last 2 days adjusting the swivel pin preload, which should have been a lot easier than it was, first side I snapped a bolt inside the knuckle and had to tear down the whole thing to take it into a shop and have the bolt removed! finally got it all done and did the other side today. both sides were very loose (less than about 3-4 lbs each) and are now closer to 12-14 lbs each (I am ordering new shims and new bearings tomorrow so I will try to adjust them a little more accurately when I redo them next week). anyways the steering feels better (tighter) however my death wobble is still there . Tomorrow morning I am going to get under the truck and check all the bushings, links, and anything else with any movement to it to see if anything moves more than it should.

here are some thoughts I have: when the truck is stationary and I turn the wheel all the way the front end seems to shift or pitch back and forth, now I know that this will do it a little but it seems as if the body is shifting separate from the axle and not with the axle (I would think the axle and the body should stay aligned with one another). I also notice when I am driving straight it feels like there is a weak spot in the steering (don't know how to explain it but it feels like there is less resistance right between the 11 and 1 o' clock positions) not sure if any one thing loose or worn would specifically effect this spot (I was thinking maybe a soft spot warn on the stabilizer/damper?). Lastly I have a pretty strong pull to the right under braking, now this has been there before but it actually seems worse now. I bled the brakes so that should not be the problem, can't say for sure the rotors are in the best shape but I don't think they are too bad.

 

the "loose spot" in your steering sounds like the steering box itself.

 

I wondered about that myself but the steering linkage and wheels still move in that soft spot so I don't know if thats it, should I try adjusting the screw adjustment thingy on the steering box or is that a big no no?

I was thinking worn bushings somewhere

 

Sounds like your panhard rod bushings are shot if it feels like the body is moving separate from the axle. That would also explain the soft spot and the death wobble. I had the pull to the drivers side under braking after new calipers and pads and found out the bushings were shot from the radius arms to the axle, replaced those bushings along with the radius arm to frame bushings and it seems that it doesnt pull anymore under braking.

 

Do you have the rave manual?

I have done the box adjustment in older (50s) GM vehicles, not in a Rover though.

there is a whole section in there about adjusting the box.

is your alignment on? how are your tires?

 

changed the panhard rod bushings last month, an alignment is planned as that has been considered a possibility. The bushings I am concerned about are the radius arms and the anti roll bar.

 

I found out my bushings were shot by just grabbing the radius arm an twisted it by hand (yeah they were shot) but you mite want to use a prybar and check for side to side movement on the axle. As far as where they attach to the frame Im not sure how to check for too much play besides a visual inspection. Also make sure your bolts are tight on your panhard bar and the bolts that hold the bracket to the frame. As far as sway bar bushings being shot that should have no effect on the death wabble they have more effect on handleing of the truck

 

Anti-roll bar bushings won't have anything to do with death wobble. The other bushings, yes. Also bad tires can, loose wheel bearings, loose ball joints, are a few of the other items.

 

ok so here is the update, my hub nut was a little lose after reassembly of the final drive when I broke the bolt in the steering knuckle the other day so this morning I tightened that up, I have no play at the wheels and the swivel pins are tight (not as tight as I would like but tight enough until next week). While under there I checked my ball joints and bushings, ball joints are good and the panhard rod bushing at the drivers side (frame side) is shot, this sucks because I just replaced both of those bushings in July (I guess PS fluid leak and wobble destroyed it again) PS fluid leak is being worked on as well, the radius arms flex a little side to side right at the axle, the bushings in the back that mount to the frame look solid. So today I ordered 2 new upper swivel pin shim packs, 2 upper thrust bearings, 4 thrust washers, the 2 panhard rod bushings, and the 4 bushings for the radius arms at the axle. this will all go in next week when I get them and I will update this thread when its done. I will also take a close look at the drivers side caliper to see if that is the cause of my pulling to the right while braking.

NOTE TO PHIL: I will try to get pictures of the process of the swivel pin preload adjustment so we can do a write up for the tech section.

 

At a minimum you'll need the locknuts for the radius arm-to-chassis mount. They are nylocks and you don't want to reuse them. I'd do the bushings on the trailing end too while you have them out since the arms can be a real pain to R&R.