I'm putting in new U/Js this weekend, hopefully I'll get to it.

My '97 has (4) so I bought Neapco 1-0005 at Advance auto for $12.50 ea. ($54/4 out the door) They can look up by #, but a 1993 volvo uses them

These are american made (pdq box & joint) and have the zerk in the end cap, thereby eliminating the need to clock them.

It's been a long pissing contest between these and Prescision 344.

I searched a variety of places, didn't find a straight answer re: brand,model,source for our DI - most junk was for DII's.

Mine aren't shot, but I've put more than 60k on them and I don't know if the po had greased them.
(I remember some thin black grease oozed out the first time)

I'll post,

luck,greg

 

You got the right u-joints. Those are the same ones I installed in my Disco after a potential buyer was nice enough to pay for a mechanic to check out the truck and they found the u-joint at the rear diff was failing. I went ahead and replaced them all while I was doing it.

 

Got the u-joints in, I saved one old one as spare, the other three I pulled were lubed,(by me) but one of them had a pitted bearing surface

I wouldn't be surprised if they were the originals.

I'm glad that's over, initially, the new ones were tight, I hit the yokes with my 'lil buddy to backseat the caps, good now, like new.

Neapco # 1-0005 Advance auto parts - $12.50 ea. (listed for a '93 volvo 240)


luck,greg

 

Same u-joints I used, only from AutoZone.
Bought mine with my rewards points.
That was over a year ago and they are working great.

 

Yeah...sorry I wasn't clear in my propshaft rebuild thread in the general tech section. I've corrected that.

 

Tom, it wasn't anything you did or didn't do, when I try to explain things, I was taught to aSSume I'm addressing an idiot.

I'm usually pleasantly surprised.

My A.D.D. allowed me to search "u-joints" and after 15 seconds, I moved on.

I'm sorry I didn't catch your thread.


EDIT - I did see your thread, I remember the pictures LOL - I'm spanking myself right now, thanx.

luck,greg

 

well..for some reason it's under the DII write-ups, even though it applies to all rovers.

 

That may be why I glanced thru' it.

Although I did take my digital cal & verified the 1.063

luck,greg

 

I don't know if this matters but if the zerk is in the end couldn't it potentially be broken off if the drive shaft happens to be close enough to the ground i.e. coming over a dirt mound.

 

It's unlikely you'll hit anything with the propshaft before you've hit with other parts under the car. But if you're worried, you can replace the zerk with a flush style as shown in the thread. They don't stick out hardly any further than the yoke.