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diff shifter

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Old 07-15-2012, 02:55 PM
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Hi guys, my diff shifter only shifts hi and low, i read on this forum that it should go left and right also. I have a 96 disco,any help will be appreciated
 
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Old 07-15-2012, 02:56 PM
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I have the same issue. Not sure what the deal is with why it doesn't work.
 
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Old 07-15-2012, 03:12 PM
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I had the same issue when I got mine I had to take the boot and rubber off, spray the heck out of it with wd 40 and a degreaser. Then I had to go under the grabbed a long handled screw driver to loosen up with force the actuator for the diff lock. My was stuck so I moved it manually a bunch of times not it works without a problem. Here is the video I looked at for help, obviously I did not cut a whole in the floor like this guy did, but it helped to get a visual of what stuff looked like.


Expect to get dirty of this one! Hope that helps

Josh
 
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Old 07-15-2012, 07:39 PM
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if not cycled and used regularly they have a tendency to gum and lock up. as stated above, lube it up and cycle it. it will get easier. and as preventative maintenance, keep it lubed and cycle it at least once a month through all positions.
jon
 
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Old 07-16-2012, 07:32 AM
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thanks all. will do this weekend
 
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Old 07-16-2012, 04:41 PM
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Do a search on stuck diff lock and you will find a wealth of info already on this site.

It is a common problem with the diff lock sifter as it is exposed from beneaqth to road grime and all sorts of nasty stuff. If it has ever been off-roaded with WATER CROSSINGS, IT PROBABLY GOT REALLY NASTY OR IF YOU LIVE IN A RUST BELT AREA.

You need to remove the center console for access, then drill out the factory rivets of the rubber gaiter and save it to re-install. You will need a drill and a pop rivet gun.

PB Blaster works great. Soak it several times and use finesse. Too much brute force will damage the delicate linkage.

Land Rover Discovery I Transmission Levers, Linkage Parts Available from RoversNorth.com

The above link shows all the various parts and pieces and how they hook up to one another. I REPLACED ALL THE CLEVIS PINS AND THE SMALL CLIPS ON MINE DUE TO CORROSION AND THE PARTS ARE CHEAP.

Also look at the Rovers North forum pages, there is a lot of info on there regarding this problem and the steps involved.

A DI without difflock is a one wheel drive in bad stuff, so before you go off-road, fix it right if you want to make full use of the 4 by 4 capabilities the Disco has.
 
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Old 07-16-2012, 04:44 PM
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Item 35 on the parts breakdown (selector assy) is rotated via the linkage to lock and unlock the diff. Until it moves, the diff will not lock.
 
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Old 07-17-2012, 05:16 AM
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Do not concentrate only on the linkage that's on the passenger side.

I got mine unstuck by lubricating the rod and guiding bushing on the opposite side . The rod comes out onthe left side of the transfer case when you actuate the lever. No disassembly was needed. Good luck
 
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Old 07-17-2012, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by batiscan
Do not concentrate only on the linkage that's on the passenger side.

I got mine unstuck by lubricating the rod and guiding bushing on the opposite side . The rod comes out onthe left side of the transfer case when you actuate the lever. No disassembly was needed. Good luck
I have no idea what you are talking about! If his linkage is frozen due to corrosion or dried muck in there, I woud not agree with what you advised. Please provide any pictures you may have of what you are referring to.

I linked to the illustrated parts breakdown that shows all the parts, their nomenclature and relationship to one another and their prices as well if you follow the link.

The selector plate is what rotates to engage and disengage the diff lock. Until it rotates, you will not engage or disengage. What is this rod and guiding bushing you speak of? Please use the item numbers and correct nomenclature for the specific parts so we are on the same page.

Some people do get it to work without disassy but that is not at all what I encountered. I prefer to be abl to see and touch what I need to work on. Proper disassembly is not that involved and that is the only good way to access the entire assembly and reduces the probability of doing additional damage. Above all lubrication and finesse are preferred over brute force and not being able to see what all may be wrong.

IF YOU CLICK ON THE LINK IN MY SIGNATURE, YOU WILL FIND LOTS OF PICS OF THE CDL LINKAGE FROM WHEN I FIXED MINE A FEW YEARS AGO.
 

Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; 07-17-2012 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 07-18-2012, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Danny Lee 97 Disco
I have no idea what you are talking about! If his linkage is frozen due to corrosion or dried muck in there, I woud not agree with what you advised. Please provide any pictures you may have of what you are referring to.
Why not? Never pretended that's it's the only solution. Worst case is that it won't help. Then you can always dig deeper. The parts i'me referring to are the end cover (16) and cross shaft of the transfer gear selector (RAVE picture J5903).

And no, it did not require brute force but proper lubrication did the trick ( used Remington Gun Oil). I asked my son to try to move the lever back and forth while I was oiling it and it went further each time. I went through winter (lots of snow sand and salt up here) without the need to relube. It still works fine

I thought that I should mention it since I've never seen it documented anywhere. The attached picture shows the opening where the shaft peeks out when you engage the diff lock. It's not very accessible but the spray can reach it.

Cheers
 
Attached Thumbnails diff shifter-lt230shiftlinkage2.jpg  


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