Dot 3 -4?
#1
#3
#6
Replacing the master cylinder
In removing the old master cylinder all I did was remove the 2 gas lines from the master, then pumped the brake pedal several times rapidly in order to get the fluid out. Also take into account an unknown amount of brake fluid leaked out prior to any brake work. So my first question is how to I know for sure if all the fluid is out of the system? I already installed the new master cylinder with abs, but haven't added any fluid yet. Not sure how or the best way to bleed the system. Preferably the cheapest fastest method. Can anyone give me some detailed tips? ANd yes Ill just use Dot 4
#7
In removing the old master cylinder all I did was remove the 2 gas lines from the master, then pumped the brake pedal several times rapidly in order to get the fluid out. Also take into account an unknown amount of brake fluid leaked out prior to any brake work. So my first question is how to I know for sure if all the fluid is out of the system? I already installed the new master cylinder with abs, but haven't added any fluid yet. Not sure how or the best way to bleed the system. Preferably the cheapest fastest method. Can anyone give me some detailed tips? ANd yes Ill just use Dot 4
Was able to mount a bottle on the Master Cylinder with a quart of extra fluid while I was bleeding - bled until clean and clear.
And again, I use DOT 3-4, DOT 4 only is not available to me (that I have found) and I have had no issues.
Took like...30 minutes - INCLUDING set up time.
Well worth the $$!!
Last edited by groundandpound; 06-16-2011 at 09:54 AM. Reason: Additional info
#8
Go down to autozone and get a one man bleeder kit. Theyre like 8$. hook it up pass rear, bleed till new clear dot 4 or syn dot3 fluid fills the bleeder reservoir, repeat on Driver rear, pass front then driver rear. Mike says use two qts, so that's half a bottle per wheel. Maybe less considering you'll want to leave some of that fluid IN the system
#10
Most good quality brake fluid exceeds the specifications for DOT 3 and DOT 4. The reason we see DOT 3 label on some fluid that exceeds DOT 4 fluid specifications is because the company also sells a DOT 4 labled fluid that exceeds it even further. The two fluids are compatible but DOT 3 labled fluids do not *necessarily* meet DOT 4.
Where I don't like the ultra-high boiling point fluids is they can be a lot more hygroscopic. Unfortunately, the DOT specifications and the labeling doesn't tell you anything about how hygroscopic the fluid is. You just get the wet boiling point. So the bottom line is you have to figure the higher the boiling point, the shorter the fluid's life at peak performance is going to be. The DOT3 fluids may have lower boiling points but will probably stay dry longer. The race fluids, I wouldn't keep them in there for more than a year.
Where I don't like the ultra-high boiling point fluids is they can be a lot more hygroscopic. Unfortunately, the DOT specifications and the labeling doesn't tell you anything about how hygroscopic the fluid is. You just get the wet boiling point. So the bottom line is you have to figure the higher the boiling point, the shorter the fluid's life at peak performance is going to be. The DOT3 fluids may have lower boiling points but will probably stay dry longer. The race fluids, I wouldn't keep them in there for more than a year.