Engine Temp and Oil Pressure Corralated?
#1
Engine Temp and Oil Pressure Corralated?
Hi Guys,
Background Info:
1994/95 Land Rover Discovery - 96k miles
New Water Pump
New Oil Pressure Sensor
New Oil Change - 15w40 Shell (brand)
New Oil Filter
Issue 1:
Drive 5 miles - At Idel (500-700RPM)
Oil Light Flickers - Oil Light goes off when above 800RPM
Issue 2:
Drive 10 Miles - Get into Traffic stop and go on freeway -
Engine Temp Gauge rises (as expected) to just below the top white hash mark (well below the red zone) -
Oil Light begins to flicker and stays on no matter engine RPM-
Exit Freeway - engine begins to cool temp gauge falls to Halfway mark -
Oil light goes off but returns to the Issue 1:
Observations:
When Oil Light is ON I do not hear any evidence of lack of OIL in the engine - In other vehicles I've owned, when the oil pump fails there is definite mechanical noise from the lack of oil - IE: Rocker Noise - Barring Noise - I got off the freeway, pulled into parking lot, left truck on, opened hood and listened for any noise - no metal/mechanical noise with oil light on.
I do not have any physical evidence (except for an idiot light) that the oil pump is not working.
Is the oil pump going out?
If the oil pump is going, is there some other way, other than a new 700.00 part, to repair the pump?
If the wire connected to the oil pressure sensor is exposed to heat, would it cause these symptoms?
Any thoughts and input would be highly appreciate -
Thanks in advance,
Trav...
Background Info:
1994/95 Land Rover Discovery - 96k miles
New Water Pump
New Oil Pressure Sensor
New Oil Change - 15w40 Shell (brand)
New Oil Filter
Issue 1:
Drive 5 miles - At Idel (500-700RPM)
Oil Light Flickers - Oil Light goes off when above 800RPM
Issue 2:
Drive 10 Miles - Get into Traffic stop and go on freeway -
Engine Temp Gauge rises (as expected) to just below the top white hash mark (well below the red zone) -
Oil Light begins to flicker and stays on no matter engine RPM-
Exit Freeway - engine begins to cool temp gauge falls to Halfway mark -
Oil light goes off but returns to the Issue 1:
Observations:
When Oil Light is ON I do not hear any evidence of lack of OIL in the engine - In other vehicles I've owned, when the oil pump fails there is definite mechanical noise from the lack of oil - IE: Rocker Noise - Barring Noise - I got off the freeway, pulled into parking lot, left truck on, opened hood and listened for any noise - no metal/mechanical noise with oil light on.
I do not have any physical evidence (except for an idiot light) that the oil pump is not working.
Is the oil pump going out?
If the oil pump is going, is there some other way, other than a new 700.00 part, to repair the pump?
If the wire connected to the oil pressure sensor is exposed to heat, would it cause these symptoms?
Any thoughts and input would be highly appreciate -
Thanks in advance,
Trav...
#2
Yes oil pressure is engine temp related, the hotter the oil the thinner it gets.
Over heating the oil also causes engine sludge.
You can replace just the oil pump gears, the gear set is under $100.
I would start by replacing the oil pressure sensor, it was $15 at AutoZone when I bought mine almost 5 years ago.
You also need to replace your clutch fan, go to the tech section on the DI page.
You truck is running way to hot while sitting in traffic.
Over heating the oil also causes engine sludge.
You can replace just the oil pump gears, the gear set is under $100.
I would start by replacing the oil pressure sensor, it was $15 at AutoZone when I bought mine almost 5 years ago.
You also need to replace your clutch fan, go to the tech section on the DI page.
You truck is running way to hot while sitting in traffic.
#4
#5
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 25,707
Likes: 0
Received 103 Likes
on
85 Posts
First I would suggest is doing an oil pressure test to verify the problem. Do it cols at idle then 2000 RPM's and again hot at idle and 2000 RPM's. Get back to us with the numbers.
Second, I would check with A.B. and make sure that kit is not from China, the price is quite a bit lower then most other sites.
If you are going to replace the pump, consider doing the timing chain at the same time to improve your performance.
Second, I would check with A.B. and make sure that kit is not from China, the price is quite a bit lower then most other sites.
If you are going to replace the pump, consider doing the timing chain at the same time to improve your performance.
#6
First I would suggest is doing an oil pressure test to verify the problem. Do it cols at idle then 2000 RPM's and again hot at idle and 2000 RPM's. Get back to us with the numbers.
Second, I would check with A.B. and make sure that kit is not from China, the price is quite a bit lower then most other sites.
If you are going to replace the pump, consider doing the timing chain at the same time to improve your performance.
Second, I would check with A.B. and make sure that kit is not from China, the price is quite a bit lower then most other sites.
If you are going to replace the pump, consider doing the timing chain at the same time to improve your performance.
Do you recommend a tool that does this?
Thanks,
Trav...
#7
Yes oil pressure is engine temp related, the hotter the oil the thinner it gets.
Over heating the oil also causes engine sludge.
You can replace just the oil pump gears, the gear set is under $100.
I would start by replacing the oil pressure sensor, it was $15 at AutoZone when I bought mine almost 5 years ago.
You also need to replace your clutch fan, go to the tech section on the DI page.
You truck is running way to hot while sitting in traffic.
Over heating the oil also causes engine sludge.
You can replace just the oil pump gears, the gear set is under $100.
I would start by replacing the oil pressure sensor, it was $15 at AutoZone when I bought mine almost 5 years ago.
You also need to replace your clutch fan, go to the tech section on the DI page.
You truck is running way to hot while sitting in traffic.
In traffic where do you think temp gauge should be in heavy traffic? Should it always be at the center of the gauge?
If I replace the fan clutch, will it keep the oil cool, and help me to keep from having to tear the front of the engine off to change out the pump gear?
Thanks for your input!!
Trav...
#8
hey did you have a gas in your oil when you change it because that will make the light go on and off....
here is the tool mike is talking about
GP Sorensen/1 1/2 in. dia. 30 PSI oil pressure tester with 12.9 in. hose (779-5525) | Oil Pressure Tester | AutoZone.com
here is the tool mike is talking about
GP Sorensen/1 1/2 in. dia. 30 PSI oil pressure tester with 12.9 in. hose (779-5525) | Oil Pressure Tester | AutoZone.com
#9
Hi Spike,
In traffic where do you think temp gauge should be in heavy traffic? Should it always be at the center of the gauge?
If I replace the fan clutch, will it keep the oil cool, and help me to keep from having to tear the front of the engine off to change out the pump gear?
Thanks for your input!!
Trav...
In traffic where do you think temp gauge should be in heavy traffic? Should it always be at the center of the gauge?
If I replace the fan clutch, will it keep the oil cool, and help me to keep from having to tear the front of the engine off to change out the pump gear?
Thanks for your input!!
Trav...
#10
The temp gauge is A) more like an idiot light with a pointer. The "center" can vary drastically in temp. There is no set number at which your gauge will be in the center, they are quite cheeseish. B) IF you keep over heating your going to have a head job to do as well. YOU MUST start with replacing the fan clutch, and potentially have your radiator fixed by a shop. IF YOU DON'T, THEN for the love of God sell it and walk away. Don't destroy a otherwise good engine. As for the oil light problem. Get a gauge (I bought a glowshift sandwich adapter because I couldn't find a gauge's thread to line up with the one on the oil pressure sensor. Test the engine COLD at 2500 rpm and at idle. Then when the temp gauge is in the center of the line at 2500 rpm and idle. Tell us the numbers and we can help you.
If the temp gauge is a idiot light with a pointer, then what should I expect to see on the gauge if the cooling system is working as expect? During normal "in city" driving and heavy traffic driving - I Live in the Los Angeles area and traffic can be horendous. Should it be in the center? Should it be below the center? Should it be above the center? Just trying to find out what is "normal" - And yes I understand that heating an aluminum engine can be very dangerous - and thank you for your advice to sell her..
Thanks for your input,
Trav...