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Exhaust - Muffler

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Old 07-01-2011, 08:28 AM
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Default Exhaust - Muffler

Gentleman – It would appear the next project I will be tackling on the Green Dragon will be the exhaust. The resonator pipe is cracking just aft of the flange. My hangers are also toast.

The aft muffler is intact, although dented and rusted, but the rest of the aft exhaust pipe is reasonably solid. My choices are to go cheap by splicing in just a muffler or by the whole assembly from AB. Either way, the studs (the look like studs) going from the forward Y pipe flange are completely rusted. I don’t think I have any chance of getting the nuts off without breaking them.

Questions:
1. Are you guys just cutting the studs off, drilling them out and using bolts?
2. Has anyone successfully spliced in a generic muffler?
3. Any other/better deals out there beside the AB exhaust kit? ($269 isn’t that bad……..)

Oh yeah…………..the local muffler shop wanted $900 to do the work……….

Thanks in advance

RS
 
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Old 07-01-2011, 08:50 AM
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1. I had to replace the flange (the moving one on the y-pipe) with a generic one. I think Rover originally used bolts.
2. I installed a Magnaflow. You can find these pretty cheap on eBay, around 80$
3. Don't know, looks like a cheap kit and it doesn't qualify for free shipping.
 
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Old 07-01-2011, 09:19 AM
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Search my exhaust thread. It's painfully long and full of all your issues. Long story short: drill the bolts out of the flange, drop the resonator,order a 63$ flowmaster from eBay, tack that in with a new flange, try and save the original exhaust that bends over the axel that is the expensive part. And just weld in what you need where you have gaps. Our muffler is 2.5" in/2.5" out. I BELIEVE it's center in, offset out. It's fairly easy. I didn't have a welder so a dude did mine for like 225 but only scrap what you have to. I re used my exhaust over the rear axel and stopped the rust by sanding it down and using fireplace paint rated to 500+ def Fahrenheit.
 
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Old 07-01-2011, 09:22 AM
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If you are just concerned about the rear muffler, resinator, cut it off, sounds better and gives you better rear clearance.
 
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Old 07-01-2011, 09:43 AM
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I know this doesn't really help you out but all i saw was $900 bucks...HOLY CRAP. My local muffler shop did a header back 2.5" custom exhaust on my car and mounted the muffler(supplied by me) for $180 bucks. That included welding flanges to a resonator (supplied by me) to replace the cat and gaskets. $900 sounds ridiculous! Is the piping stainless? I'm down south so the piping is just a standard aluminized piping and corrosion is not an issue. Just wondering if the materials is causing just a huge diff in cost.
 

Last edited by CUpgt; 07-01-2011 at 09:54 AM.
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Old 07-01-2011, 10:39 AM
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For what it's worth...I installed the "AB" kit 2 years ago and so far no problems.....the local muffler shops wanted more than the cost of the kit to replace just the resonator. My only complaint was that it seemed like the assembly was an inch or 2 too long upon assembly...the "ol hacksaw cured that in no time, you'll need new rubber mounts....thats the hardest part of the job...or go to the local parts store and get new ones from them. from my experience it doesnt pay to mess around with rusted exhaust fasteners...cut 'em and start the new install. good luck !
 
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Old 07-01-2011, 10:55 AM
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I'm just glad my Rover has always been a southern truck. I haven't encountered anything on the truck that has even required penetrating oil...knock on wood.
 
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Old 07-01-2011, 07:46 PM
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If your replacing the whole thing then go with the kit from AB.
Your muffler shop is trying to rip you off, did you go to a small muffler shop or a chain like Midas?
I had my muffler replaced and it was $100 out the door.
 
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Old 07-01-2011, 08:57 PM
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Turf63 - i like the fireplace paint idea......

The shop is a local chain. Maybe 25 locations..........

Fools. Oh well no business for them...........

Now off to find a mating flange............
 
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Old 07-02-2011, 07:48 AM
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i'll post pics soon, i cant take credit for the fireplace paint. That was swami spike
 


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