it was a ghetto fix but budgets are tight. honestly, in hindsight, considering i paid the dude like 225 i should have just bought a harbor freight welder for like 150$ and done it myself, the beads would have been better. BUt then, once you factor in pipe and the issue that i had no way to cut it i guess that was the way to go.

So heres the original issue





and heres the fix





YouTube - ‪disco exhaust patch.MOV‬‏

after i sanded it down.



i dont have a picture of it painted. Just imagine that....but black

 

Man it looks like that LR must be living in a bad environment or your driving in the ocean waves? Any and all joints be it not welded as well every slip, ball socket plus studs and nuts if you applied Loctite as example a Nickel Ant-Seize compound, good to 2,400*F. Years later taken apart as the day you installed. Not the aluminum based anti-seize, get nickel.
In the 4th picture after the muffler that new pipe having the old down stream piped stuffed into it isn't the best way of connecting exhaust piping together.It will run but It's creating added unnecessary turbulence as well restricted flow when you need it most at higher throttle demands of higher exhaust gas flow.
I bet it still has balled up slag on the end from the cutting torch. If I had to make it work with what's at hand first a clean square cut to the existing pipe heading to the rear, swagged the pipe end for a snug fit into that new pipe, chamfered the ID of the rearward pipe for the bare minimum of turbulence created then welded. Straight pipe into a stretched pipe coupling or bell end downstream unless a butt weld for the best flow, not from bell coupling end to straight pipe flow direction if possible. Your already dealing with a poorly flowing engine, (intake and exhaust), why hinder it more, they are already under powered. Increased back pressure also increasing heat on the exhaust valves already being punished by the Cats plus lean tune set for the North American Market. In a pinch like a smog check deadline requirement doing the cheap and dirty just to pass vs receiving an "exhaust dilution" AKA exhaust leak failed test, apply "Muffler Tape" as well muffler patch compound made up of sodium silicate a thick tooth paste like cream. Emergency quick patch also able to get ya home from a far away from home trip not driven nuts with a damaged or loud damaged exhaust..
Muffler shops, most are hacks (90% my opinion) with very few able to do a professional job (also not cheap) not excessively crushing pipe bends as well paying attention to details striving for maximum exhaust flow given the pipe diameter they're dealing with. Single exhaust but having duel pipes at the rear what a joke, fools the fools looking Kool.
I'm critical dealing with exhaust systems, I have the welders (Tig & Mig) Plasma, metal cutting band saws, grinders plus swagging tools for make couplings out of straight pipe. Mandrel tubing bends only no machine crushed bends. Relatives in the muffler shop business going back 50 years hanging around the shop.
Sad the public is not aware of excessive price quotes then giving up letting them do the repairs. Add insult to wallet injury the average person never looks under their vehicle not alone a clue what is a good exhaust system repair vs a hack job or what they are looking at. Sure it will run but how much better it could of ran if a properly built exhaust system were applied.
Just remember those dirt cheap exhaust systems that catch your fancy use the cheapest materials, thinnest gauge tubing hence how they can be offered so cheaply. Will they last several years, I bet not. Any "keeper LR" or vehicle your dollars ahead buying quality once vs several cheap replacements times plus look into a stainless exhaust system and forget about rust out problems up the road. Sorry, end of rant. ......~~=o&o>........