Finished the rust renovation and new floor
#21
#23
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
Posts: 5,584
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Nice Overdrive unit
Slang, I checked that out, here's the page from the company in Canada that makes the cover. They also make an overdrive unit that looks awesome and lowers operating rpm's by 28% for better mpg.
http://roamerdrive.com/pdfs/dsinstal_all.pdf
http://roamerdrive.com/pdfs/dsinstal_all.pdf
#25
Hey, for those holes in the floor, what fiberglass did you use?
Is that resin, the stuff with the hairs in it, or the cloth stuff.
I.e.
3M? Bondo® Fiberglass Resin Jelly Kit - Pint | Product Details | Pep Boys
or
3M? Bondo® Bondo-Hair® Long Strand Fiberglass Reinforced Filler - Quart | Product Details | Pep Boys
or
3M? Bondo® Fiberglass Resin Repair Kit - 8 oz. | Product Details | Pep Boys
Is that resin, the stuff with the hairs in it, or the cloth stuff.
I.e.
3M? Bondo® Fiberglass Resin Jelly Kit - Pint | Product Details | Pep Boys
or
3M? Bondo® Bondo-Hair® Long Strand Fiberglass Reinforced Filler - Quart | Product Details | Pep Boys
or
3M? Bondo® Fiberglass Resin Repair Kit - 8 oz. | Product Details | Pep Boys
#26
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
Posts: 5,584
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I just went out and got on the creeper and did some body surfing under mine to see about getting an answer for you. I can see the bottom and both sides of mine. I reached my hand up and touched the top of mine from the passenger's side. Driver's side is too close to frame.
You could get one of those inspection mirrors to see it or use a cellie and video it or for those really cool dudes that have them fancy little cameras on a flex tube.......
Or if you got under it with it running, any exhaust leak would be noticeable.
#27
i bought the fiberglass from a pro auto shop store. they have good brands in general including 3m but i don't know what it was..definitely commercial labeling.
it was two part resin and sheets of hairy fiberglass. you basically rust proof and clean the surfaces, lay the dry sheet down on the hole and paint the resin on in the next ten minutes. you can paint the edges of the whole or parts or all of the surface first to get the sheets to stick in place too. it drys and hardens fast. paint it a day later.
you could easily do the floors. it's super strong. i'm not sure if you would do it different for "foot traffic"...maybe multiple layers?
i haven't yet tried to finish the fiberglass by sanding it but if they make surf boards out of it you can probably shape it however you like. the spots i used were all non-visible and non-support obviously.
big holes require cardboard support underneath. use a glossy waffle box so it doesnt stick to the cardboard. you may need to paint it with the resin again from below later after the top dries to insure a seal on the bottom to avoid foreign matter entering from below. if you did the whole floor you could figure out where to put a drain and be able to hose out the interior....i'm close.
one thing i learned down here is that the boat people know how to protect their vehicles. i've used several marine products, fiberglass and caulking included which work well for my finish of rover.
thanks danny, i can always count on you to body surf under the truck for me!
pinky.....did you start anything. i saw you asking jake for a panel. the last link is a what i used....not 3m but the same components. i'd probably use the other 2 products for smaller and smaller holes too.
<<the middle two pics need to be reversed for sequence.>>
it was two part resin and sheets of hairy fiberglass. you basically rust proof and clean the surfaces, lay the dry sheet down on the hole and paint the resin on in the next ten minutes. you can paint the edges of the whole or parts or all of the surface first to get the sheets to stick in place too. it drys and hardens fast. paint it a day later.
you could easily do the floors. it's super strong. i'm not sure if you would do it different for "foot traffic"...maybe multiple layers?
i haven't yet tried to finish the fiberglass by sanding it but if they make surf boards out of it you can probably shape it however you like. the spots i used were all non-visible and non-support obviously.
big holes require cardboard support underneath. use a glossy waffle box so it doesnt stick to the cardboard. you may need to paint it with the resin again from below later after the top dries to insure a seal on the bottom to avoid foreign matter entering from below. if you did the whole floor you could figure out where to put a drain and be able to hose out the interior....i'm close.
one thing i learned down here is that the boat people know how to protect their vehicles. i've used several marine products, fiberglass and caulking included which work well for my finish of rover.
thanks danny, i can always count on you to body surf under the truck for me!
pinky.....did you start anything. i saw you asking jake for a panel. the last link is a what i used....not 3m but the same components. i'd probably use the other 2 products for smaller and smaller holes too.
<<the middle two pics need to be reversed for sequence.>>
Last edited by slanginsanjuan; 05-15-2012 at 08:47 AM.
#28
#29
i also used rustoleum rust reformer spray on several areas of the truck for light surface rust. if it was a hard to get to spot, i sanded and cleaned as best i could and then sprayed. especially inside any cavernous holes to try and get up around the lips and inside. when rust comes back it will come from an inner area. the reformer will slow it. i then covered that with my flat black stove paint. every time i work on an area (like the washer bay now) i clean and treat the area.
#30