front main seal
#12
Serious? I guess I misinterpreted the rave.. go figure...
While I was under there today smearing rtv all over it.. I was looking thinking man...
Why does the cover have to come off...
Boy is my face red... I coulda just fixed it this afternoon... Oh well always next weekend..
A new problem reared its head taking my boy to his momma.. viscous clutch bit the dust..
While I was under there today smearing rtv all over it.. I was looking thinking man...
Why does the cover have to come off...
Boy is my face red... I coulda just fixed it this afternoon... Oh well always next weekend..
A new problem reared its head taking my boy to his momma.. viscous clutch bit the dust..
Check the RAVE, then ask us, we usually have a shortcut.
We always have alternative parts, and best of all, a true Rover owner is always willing to help in one form or another.
#14
Wait a minute... The timing chain cover does not have to come off to do the front main seal? Is this the case with the Disco II as well?
I need to fix the leak coming from the front seal, and I thought I might as well do the timing chain and oil pump while I'm in there - maybe water pump too... But, if the cover does not have to be removed, this may be easier than I first thought.
I just got done doing the head gaskets. Painful, but the operation was a complete success. So now I'm taking interest in getting all the not so little "oil falls" under this beast fixed - my driveway is shot! 140K and it's been to the dealership for everything since new (it’s my wife’s truck). The money they wanted to do the head gaskets was crazy, so I took it on - now I' on a mission...
I need to fix the leak coming from the front seal, and I thought I might as well do the timing chain and oil pump while I'm in there - maybe water pump too... But, if the cover does not have to be removed, this may be easier than I first thought.
I just got done doing the head gaskets. Painful, but the operation was a complete success. So now I'm taking interest in getting all the not so little "oil falls" under this beast fixed - my driveway is shot! 140K and it's been to the dealership for everything since new (it’s my wife’s truck). The money they wanted to do the head gaskets was crazy, so I took it on - now I' on a mission...
#15
The front seal can be replaced without removing the front cover. Hardest part (IMO) is loosening the crank bolt. I have a shallow socket and a high torque 3/8 impact that I can just squeeze in there (it's so close that after I get the bolt loose I have to reach in and hand screw the bolt all the way back in so I can get the impact wrench out of there). After the bolt is out, pull the bottom pulley off, pry the seal out, and install the new one.
#16
The front seal can be replaced without removing the front cover. Hardest part (IMO) is loosening the crank bolt. I have a shallow socket and a high torque 3/8 impact that I can just squeeze in there (it's so close that after I get the bolt loose I have to reach in and hand screw the bolt all the way back in so I can get the impact wrench out of there). After the bolt is out, pull the bottom pulley off, pry the seal out, and install the new one.
And even though everything seems fine, shouldn't I replace the timing chain and oil pump at 140K just to be safe? OR, if it aint broke...
Thanks,
T
Last edited by Tony Luna; 09-15-2012 at 08:51 PM.
#17
#18
The EASIEST way to loosen the crank pulley bolt is this...remove the fuel pump fuse, put your socket on the nut, rest the breaker bar on the floor.
Tap the ignition key, the starter for the engine will break the nut loose.
Now you can unscrew it by hand.
Takes like 30sec.
Tap the ignition key, the starter for the engine will break the nut loose.
Now you can unscrew it by hand.
Takes like 30sec.
What are your thoughts on replacing the timing chain and oil pump at 140K? Although, for all I know, they may have already been done - need to ask the service department at RWCLR.
Thanks agian.
#20