I have a guy from my local 4 wheeling club coming over with a file and a digital caliper. 2 things I have been meaning to pick up.

 

We measured tolerances and My buddy filed down the paint. The end result? The step on the propshaft where it mates to the center diff is too tall. This is why I have the slight gap. Looks like I need another trip to Bill's! I cannot say I am surprised, Bill had to custom build this part so some tweaking was inevitable.

 

That ridge on the new shaft seems to stick out quite a bit further than it should. It looks like its interfering with the two surfaces mating properly.

 

Oops, missed those last couple posts. Bring him your stock DS for comparison.

 

That's the plan!

 

I had heard the adapters to get the 1310 u-jointed double cardan to a D1 flange were now coming out of China and were not holding up/weak. IIRC I heard through the grapevine that GBR stopped using them and went back to the old-style adapter between the shaft and flange. I've bookmarked a couple of places offering these; just haven't had the need to call around and find out if they're Chinese junk as well:

Parts
Custom Flanges scroll down to the LR section

I'll throw in one more read about using 1350 joints and double cardan for LRs: Anyone interested in heavy duty DC drive shafts? - Australian Land Rover Owners This one feels like overkill, but if 1310 setups aren't strong enough for someone, it's a solution. Though, no part numbers, etc. to facilitate having one built here.

I'll add in a bonus use for the old-style adapters - when you destroy a rear driveshaft, the adapter can be left in place and hold all that together when the bad shaft is removed and you need to drive home in FWD.

 

Mine is not Chinese. Bill sent the Chinese ones back and built this custom from a US made part.

 

This is Bill, staying late to get my shaft done! That is why I went to Bill. Not only do I owe him a large debt of gratitude, but he deserves every praise he gets! He does not compromise when it comes to the product he puts out. He is having new flanges made here in the USA of his own design just so we know we are not running Chinese crap. He is looking at around $375-$400 for a target price of these new front propshafts based on my custom built one. Support him whenever possible!

 

Hmm $375-400 is pretty steep since you can get a Tom Woods shaft for around $330

A couple questions. Maybe help justify the cost......

What brand U-joints and parts?
How thick tubing is used?
Why is there a big hole in the double cardan end??
Was the flange ridge too deep or too wide?
How does it ride now?

 

1.Spicer parts and local made C&C made end not a Chinese steel POS.
2.Thick, it is seriously beefy.
3.Don't know, will have to ask Bill on that one.
4.too deep, but as he custom built this one it is expected. The ones he is having made will be corrected
5.installing tomorrow, have high hopes though. I watched him lathe and balance it, reicture above.

I will add he told me the manufactured end will be shorter to allow for more axle travel.

You might want to check the TW pieces. Probably cheap for a reason.