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Which fuse to disable ABS on a D1?

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Old 03-05-2023, 03:06 PM
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Default Which fuse to disable ABS on a D1?

I know, I know it's been said a million times but when I search I'm finding different replies.
Some say remove the 30 amp fuse
smeo say remove the 40 amp fuse
some say remove the fuse under the dash as well.

I just wanted an up to date consensus as to how to disable the ABS system.
One nice thing about the is forum is all the years of info but I was searching it and found some threads about disabling the ABS system from 10 years or so ago and
people were like "WHY would you want to do that" or "what's the liability in doing that". Well, I figure all these years later all that's been discuss to death.

So please can I get the simple answer to this? Fixin' to go on a long trip and sick of the ABS with a mind of it's own.
Thanks,
dcphotos
 
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Old 03-06-2023, 06:16 AM
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The ABS fuse is located under the hood on the passenger side where you'll have a small fuse panel. Two screws hold the fuse inplace. I think I ended up removing the ABS light bulb behind the gauge display.

I did this years ago. I went to put on the brakes while going down a hill and the ABS kicked in which didn't kick in if you know what I mean! I grew up driving back in the day when there was no ABS. I don't need it and I don't want it.
 
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Old 03-06-2023, 09:37 AM
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I removed the 40A ABS Pump fuse, not the 30A ABS Valve fuse on both trucks. That has worked out fine. I just live with the ABS indicator light on the dash. The cover for the engine bay fuse box has the labels for each fuse. I keep the fuses in the parts box for the next owner.
 
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Old 03-06-2023, 09:56 AM
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Thanks Guys,
The 40A is the one I removed but wanted to be sure. So posts say remove the 30A fuse, some say remove both but
when I looked at the date of the posting to was ten years ago or more so I just wanted to hear it from someone a bit more recently.

Toran, I, too was having ABS kick on at times like pulling up to a stop light or taking off in a parking lot. Scary feeling indeed!
JohnZo, I figured the ABS light is on most of the time anyway so why not just unplug the system. Thanks again!

CHEERS!
dcphotos
 
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Old 03-06-2023, 10:00 AM
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Usually when the ABS engages and then you go from stopping to not stopping it's usually due to an ABS sensor backing out. It'll also do it if the front swivel ball pre-load is off causing excessive movement. My 95 D1 did this and I simply disabled it. Later I did find the RF sensor had backed out along with swivel ball missing a bearing which caused slop. Fixed all that and I'm sure the ABS would work great, but it stops really well without it so I'm leaving it alone. My 97 XD on the other hand = ABS has always worked flawless. I think the rust is actually holding the ABS sensors into place lol.
 
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Old 03-06-2023, 10:11 AM
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Pretty sure that's exactly what is happing. Some days the ABS light goes out in about ten seconds like it should, other days it stays on or comes on while driving.
Before I go off on this road trip, I wanted to just band aid the fix and I'll address it when I get back.
Thanks,
dcphotos
 
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Old 03-10-2023, 12:36 AM
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My ABS was working flawlessly until about a year ago. I started getting intermittent ABS activation on cold starts and then it progressively got worse. I was tired of experiencing the pucker factor, so I took the plunge and pulled the 40A ABS pump fuse last week expecting to get the ABS light, but no light. The ABS light apparently burned out prior to my ownership. :-)

 
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Old 03-10-2023, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by jvarnadoe
My ABS was working flawlessly until about a year ago. I started getting intermittent ABS activation on cold starts and then it progressively got worse. I was tired of experiencing the pucker factor, so I took the plunge and pulled the 40A ABS pump fuse last week expecting to get the ABS light, but no light. The ABS light apparently burned out prior to my ownership. :-)
It seems these trucks are full of surprises. They take their time to reveal their mysteries.

I have a theory that the magnets in the sensors weakened over the years. The tiniest fraction of a millimeter out would cause mine to go from working to not working, always at low speed, sometimes at the edge of a cliff or in a crowded parking lot. I do not miss that thrill. I do kind of miss slamming on the brakes in the snow and letting ABS do it's thing. They worked fine at higher speeds. Hall Effect sensors require metal moving through a magnetic field to produce a voltage. More magnetism and more velocity both produce higher voltages, so it makes sense that the signal is lost when magnetism is weak and speed is low. Lost signal then causes ABS to activate. My mechanic has a cool scanner that shows the ABS pulses from each wheel, and shows ABS fault codes. Really great for troubleshooting.
 
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