Ummm so uhhhh... I can't figure out this short. Could I in theory hard wire pump to a fuse that works when car is on and go straight to the battery? It's post evap. I know it's not the best idea but I don't have a ton of money to replace wiring etc and I need to drive to class.

 

It's an incredibly bad idea unless it's wired through an oil pressure switch.
If you can't diagnose the existing wiring problem the correct way to wire the fuel pump will be perplexing too.

 

My advice is to get underneath it and physically trace the involved wiring and find where it is damaged/degraded/shorted or whatever. Fix any damaged/degraded wires you can find.

What did you do with all the fuel pumps you removed and replaced? Did you check them to see if they are possibly still good?

Patching it or "Hotwiring" it would only be an absolute emergency fix and should not be considered a permanent solution.

 

X2 on that advice. If you can't find why it is shutting off, hard wiring one will be dangerous.

So are you sure it is not getting the burst of power when the key first turns on? If not, then go back to the fuel pump relay and see if it is getting triggered. I just replaced 3 relays on a 98 with 112K. they just wore out.

 

I can walk you through what to check electrically. It may also be your alarm spider acting up.

You need to bench test the old pumps to see if they still work.

The circuit runs from fuse 6 in the engine fuse box, goes to the fuel pump relay in pin 30 and out pin 87 (passenger side right in front of the ECU in engine comaprtment) runs through the alarm spider in pin 2 and out pin 3 of connector C2095, through the intertia switch and back to the tank on a white/purple wire.

Have you unplugged the intertia switch and shorted the leads together?

I would start at the fuel pump relay. Have someone turn on the truck and feel it to see if it is clicking. Should click when turned on, hold for about 5 seconds and click off...

 

There is a common alarm issue that shuts off the power to the fuel pumps.
You will have to do some research on it to find it, I used to have a link to it.
Check the RAVE manual, it may be in there too.
If you hard wire it you will need to install a toggle switch on the dash and remember to turn it off when not using the truck.

 

Hell it's only gasoline and possibly electrical short sparking a little, Why would that be a problem?

 

[quote=okdiscoguy;199791]X2 on that advice. If you can't find why it is shutting off, hard wiring one will be dangerous.

So are you sure it is not getting the burst of power when the key first turns on? If not, then go back to the fuel pump relay and see if it is getting triggered. I just replaced 3 relays on a 98 with 112K. they just wore out.[/quote]


What did you do with the old ones? I did a lot of work with relays on missile and aircraft programs. I would to see how these are made.

 

Here's a good link for the alarm spider, should diagnosis take you in that direction.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=86

Also this link. http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stage1v...SpiderUnit.htm

Correct me if I'm wrong but is fixing this spider alarm issue something all of us will have to do at some time to our D1s?

 

Dang, were those used relays that failed?