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how cold is too cold

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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 10:51 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Michael M. Koch
I found this thread while researching my own "too cold" oddities. This week I had to take the rover on a 650 mile round trip, and the temp (according to ultragauge) stayed around 160 most of the trip. Air intake temps were between 41 & 51, but I was under the impression it wouldn't make that big of a difference. (During hotter weather it would easily get up to 200 on the highway.) At one point I got it down to 120, (but that was coasting down a mountain,) and it never went above 180. Which, coincidentally, is the thermostat I have. Also, it never went into open loop, except for a second or two occasionally that I noticed.
I did remove one of the electric fans that wasn't working. My logic being that I'd replace it once the weather warms up, and what's the point of obstructing part of the radiator in the meantime?
From what I gather, there's no harm done to the engine by its running cold, with the exception of even worse gas mileage. But I'm really curious as to why, all of a sudden, it decided to go from borderline meltdown to colder than normal?
Running down the highway on a long trip with the engine running to cold will only reduce your MPG.
Running around town, starting/shutting the engine off will cause excessive water to build up inside the engine, rot out the exhaust, never let it go closed loop, etc.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 10:52 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by TOM R
i have noticed that my heat is not so great and that is reflected by the temp gauge (factory) only going up about 1/4 of the way up though it does get there fast, i did the stat within the last year or so with a oem temp ( according to the parts store computer)
Is your clutch fan locked up all the time?
You may have gotten a bad t-stat.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 11:16 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Spike555
Running down the highway on a long trip with the engine running to cold will only reduce your MPG.
Running around town, starting/shutting the engine off will cause excessive water to build up inside the engine, rot out the exhaust, never let it go closed loop, etc.
That's what I thought. Just seems odd that it would run that cold, even at highway speeds. Wouldn't the thermostat stay closed, not even circulating the coolant? (Suddenly I'm driving a Volkswagen because there's nothing but air keeping the engine cool.)
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 11:26 AM
  #14  
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Here is my experience with the DI cooling system, it is huge and efficient.
Most t-stats start to open before they reach full temp.
The only thing I can thing of is that your t-stat was partially open and the coolant never got hot enough to open the t-stat fully.
My engine temps spike, around 210-215, then drop to around 190, then stabilize to 195.
I run a 195 t-stat.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 11:34 AM
  #15  
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replaced the clutch new from ab over the summer and it does not sound locked guess since I am gonna change the oil I will add the 195* stat to the list
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 12:00 PM
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I guess my efforts to get the temps down paid off after all. Thanks Spike!
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 03:21 PM
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just changed out the stat it had a wax something brand stamped 88 on the bottom i put in a stant that was supposed to be 195 but says 190 on it
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 04:37 PM
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I think you're fine Tom.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 05:20 PM
  #19  
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k finaly got it running good just want to try and keep it that way one thing i was wondering is why does the upper hose go up so high above the radiator, the one i removed was original and it was the same way seems like a great place for an air pocket
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 06:50 PM
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It has to be out of the way of the fan and pulley's.
 
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