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Hey gang. So, bit of a pickle here. I went and looked at an abandoned D1 a few months back. Seemed in pretty good shape, however, the lady was a nut and told me 50 people had been after it and she had narrowed it down to 19 real ones. Took me weeks to get ahold of her so I know it was false. Anyways. I decided I wanted to give my best go at rescuing this D1. When I looked at it, all the dash bits were in it.
I should’ve re inspected before assuming it was left unmolested.
Now only a few months later, she or her husband went in the dash and cut all the wiring for literally everything, even the cables running to the dash for the AC / Heat. I hate wiring, and I’m going to have to spend hours and hours soldering. Well, towed her home tonight, gave the outside its first of many baths just to see how good the paint is. Turns out it’s good. Will need a lot of love but it can shine. 3 of the 4 20 year old tires hold air so I can at least move it around my shop.
big question tho:
I put a 75Amp starter jumper on it and the headlights are the only thing coming on. Battery is at least 20 years old I’m guessing, So should I start with that? The key won’t even turn in the ignition. No power to anything, although I can hear some clicking in the dash, and a buzzing under the seat. Still not sure it’s not what’s left of the angry hornets that came out of it while washing.
I’m mechanically inclined, and can usually figure out most problems. But figured since it’s my first D1 I’d start with the common issues. Any tips recommended.
attached is how I found her, homeward bound, and after the first wash, and tire inflation. Thanks in advance!
Based on wheels and rear lights, it looks like '96 -'98 GEMS. My old keys wore out, so I needed to work on that part. Removed the key tumbler and removed little brass tabs and springs until it worked well. Some folks just put the key into the tumbler and file down the high spots. That's what I did later.
There is some interlock with the shifter so it won't start if not in Park or Neutral, but I don't remember if that makes the key not turn? I needed to delete the Key In switch mechanism on mine because it was worn out.
The key goes in part way to start, then will not release until you press it in fully. Kind of finicky design feature to help prevent the key from getting pulled out by the crazy hitchhiker you just picked up. Also helps keep the key in with 2 pounds of other keys dangling on the key ring. That was a law suit television news thing around that time period.
Worthy effort there! Color looks great. There is a really good checklist in the Maintenance Shop Manual of items to go through. I use Torque App with a generic OBD interface. Simple truck really compared to now. Super sturdy if chassis is not rusted out. Lots of new and used parts still available, but getting more spendy. Do you have a budget? Good opportunity to get some new tools! Good luck. By the way, not all fasteners are metric, many are SAE.
Last edited by JohnZo; 10-06-2024 at 06:49 AM.
Reason: Not quite as metric as I thought it would be
Based on wheels and rear lights, it looks like '96 -'98 GEMS. My old keys wore out, so I needed to work on that part. Removed the key tumbler and removed little brass tabs and springs until it worked well. Some folks just put the key into the tumbler and file down the high spots. That's what I did later.
There is some interlock with the shifter so it won't start if not in Park or Neutral, but I don't remember if that makes the key not turn? I needed to delete the Key In switch mechanism on mine because it was worn out.
The key goes in part way to start, then will not release until you press it in fully. Kind of finicky design feature to help prevent the key from getting pulled out by the crazy hitchhiker you just picked up. Also helps keep the key in with 2 pounds of other keys dangling on the key ring. That was a law suit television news thing around that time period.
Worthy effort there! Color looks great. There is a really good checklist in the Maintenance Shop Manual of items to go through. I use Torque App with a generic OBD interface. Simple truck really compared to now. Super sturdy if chassis is not rusted out. Lots of new and used parts still available, but getting more spendy. Do you have a budget? Good opportunity to get some new tools! Good luck. By the way, not all fasteners are metric, many are SAE.
Thank you!!! My budget is really whatever. I’d like to keep it around 5-8k with all the off road bits. I should be able to get this thing running pretty easily yeah?
Was told has a new crate motor with 50k miles and it had a brake failure, and was parked. I believe that part because the brakes will repeatedly and endlessly press to the floor with no build of pressure. Right now I’m worried about getting it started. What are GEMS motors specific problems?
I 2nd what JohnZo said.
Was having the same issue and after reading several thread did the key in tumbler and filed down the high spots. The keys wear down over time, hopefully you can still lock and unlock the truck with the key.
I 2nd what JohnZo said.
Was having the same issue and after reading several thread did the key in tumbler and filed down the high spots. The keys wear down over time, hopefully you can still lock and unlock the truck with the key.
UPDATE!! ::
So the key actually seems to be working. There is a VERY specific way the ignition likes it. And it’s taken me all morning to figure it out, but, it does crank, and it ran on ether. I’m gonna check the fuel pump and make sure it’s ok.
this entire truck is a giant biohazard, I’m gonna rip out all the floor Matt’s and foam and bedliner it. It’s literally disgusting.
Fuel pumps typically go bad when they sit? I’m gonna make sure it’s even connected later in the evening considering how cooky the previous owners were.
Also, where can I buy the copper fuses in the engine? They all need replaced.
10-05-2024 | 10:09 PM
Key won’t turn?
