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LED dome light staying on

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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 04:06 PM
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MM3846's Avatar
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Winching
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Default LED dome light staying on

I replaced my front, center, and rear interior lights with LEDs recently. Now I'm noticing when I drive that the center dome light stays (dimly) lit. I just swapped in the factory festoon bulb, and the issue went away. MFU test passes. Can I just solder a resistor in the dome light along with the LED? The center dome light seems to be acting like the green ignition key illumination should be, but that hasn't worked on my truck in a while.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 04:32 PM
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I've heard others mention how the rover electrical system relies on bulbs as an integral part of the circuit.. (current draw for timers, to report things as working etc).. could be due to that?
 
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by nuclearw
I've heard others mention how the rover electrical system relies on bulbs as an integral part of the circuit.. (current draw for timers, to report things as working etc).. could be due to that?
that makes sense. i'll have to look at the rave and see if it has any info. when i pull the middle dome light bulb (nothing in the socket) both the front and rear LEDs dimly light up.

when i got the truck, my cig lighter ring, ignition ring, auto shifter, and rear window switches lit up. now they don't. could be part of it.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 08:21 PM
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All those spots you're talking about are small real bulbs. They burn out over time. I had issues with the switches corroding and had to rebuild my seat switches and window switches.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 09:46 PM
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Mine did the same thing when I switched to LED's. I first noticed it driving home at night when the lights would stay on with a very light glow. I ended up playing around with the multi-meter and what I found on mine is. That I was getting a low voltage + off the switchable ground connection when the dome light was off. This did not do anything to an incandescent bulb but was enough to slightly illuminate the LED's.

My solution probably would not work for you. But my dome light has been screwy for years. Sometimes it works others it does not. Also I don't like it coming on at night while I'm on the trail unless I want it on. So I traced the wire back down to the harness in the A-Pillar and I cut the wire. Now my light does not come on anymore when I open the doors but it also does not have that faint glow anymore either. One other modification I had added years ago was to solder a jump on the back of the switch so that when I turn on the light manually it turns it on for all 3 lights.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2014 | 10:10 AM
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Winching
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i don't want to cut mine out. i'll have to look at the rave some more and see where a resistor would make sense.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2014 | 10:56 AM
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These electrical systems are screwy enough.... does it make perfect sense to be adding to the complexity by adding a resistor just to have LED's in the domes? On paper it sounds easy to do and basic enough to work, but do you really want to anger the Rover electric gods for the sake of dome lights? I'd take my chances elsewhere. Hope that doesn't sound too 'preachy'
 
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Old Oct 10, 2014 | 11:44 AM
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Winching
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Originally Posted by WaltNYC
These electrical systems are screwy enough.... does it make perfect sense to be adding to the complexity by adding a resistor just to have LED's in the domes? On paper it sounds easy to do and basic enough to work, but do you really want to anger the Rover electric gods for the sake of dome lights? I'd take my chances elsewhere. Hope that doesn't sound too 'preachy'
not at all. gonna drop a 1kw resistor in the ground circuit and see how it goes. in theory, i'd only be making the circuit more like factory by adding the resistor with the LEDs. the prince of darkness has been fair with me thus far.
 
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