OK ....preliminary tests are showing my pre-loads are between 70-90 thou.
or .07-.09

I used the method here: except i used different thickness zip ties..cut and bent.....I will be rechecking tomorrow with wire....but was just trying to get an idea what or if I was going to have to do....

RPi Engineering - V8 Engines

also explained here :
Lifter Preload
This is rather easy and requires only a piece of welding rod with the last 5mm bent at 90 degrees and squashed to 30-40 thousands of an inch diameter as a gauge.

With the heads and rocker gear fitted and torqued, rotate the engine to TDC on No.1 cylinder. Both inlet and exhaust valve should be closed and it should be possible to insert the gauge between the pushrod seat in the follower and the circlip in the top of the follower. Record the clearance and do this for each follower, making sure the follower being measured is on the opposite side to the lobe.
The acceptable range is 20-60 thou for standard engines and purists should aim for 40. If any values are larger than this then the rocker pedestals will need to be shimmed by an amount sufficient to keep all of the clearances in the acceptable range. Use the same size shim under each pedestal otherwise a broken rocker shaft will result and make sure the oilway hole lines up with the drilling in the cylinder head.
If the values are less than 20 thou, in all probability you are using worn rocker gear and wasting your time or your assembly is wrong. Values too large require shims under the rocker pedestals, values too small require machining of the rocker pedestal bases by the required amount. This is a very unusual condition with new components and everything else should be checked before cutting metal.

I plan on rechecking my numbers tomorrow possibly using both the method above and the method below as the method on the above seems difficult to obtain numbers with which to feel confident about ....

Fast and Easy Way to Check Hydraulic Lifter Preload when using Non-Adjustable Rocker Arms
With the cam, hydraulic lifters and pushrods in place, install your rocker arm assembly. Use the prescribed method in your repair manual and
torque down all the valve train bolts in the proper sequence. Pick a cylinder that you are going to check. Hand rotate the engine in its normal
direction of rotation until both valves are closed.You are on the compression cycle for that cylinder. (At this position the valve springs are at their
least amount of tension making the job a little easier to do.)
Wait a few minutes, allowing the lifters to bleed down. Now, lay a rigid straightedge across the cylinder head, supporting it on the surface of the
head where the valve cover gasket would go. Using a metal scribe and the straightedge, carefully scribe a line on both pushrods. Now carefully
remove the torque from all valve train bolts, removing any pressure from the pushrods.Wait a few minutes for the pushrod seat in the hydraulic
lifter to move back to the neutral position. Carefully scribe a new line on both pushrods.
Measure the distance between the two scribe marks, it represents the amount of lifter preload. If the lines are .020" to .060" apart you have
proper lifter preload. If the lines are the same or less than .020" apart you have no or insufficient preload. If the lines are further apart than 0.60"
you have excessive lifter preload.

my questions are as follows

1) anyone out there have experience doing this....? does this seem excessive?? FYI---I HAD 20 THOU. REMOVED FROM MY HEAD CYLINDERS

2) What method seems more reliable ? if you had the patience to read that part

3) HAS ANYONE HERE IN THE STATES ACTUALLY SEEN THESE SHIMS

4) who has these shims HERE IN THE USA ?? ALL of the kits I have been finding are in the UK and after shipping are ridiculous to purchase
and since the oil path is through the pedestals I am not super comfortable trying to modify or make any ....

5) also wondering if anyone has gone the route of getting rods made to order rather than shimming....OR IF ANYONE THINKS THIS IS A BETTER SOLUTION than paying thru the butt to get this kit from the UK

6) does anyone have more or better instructions that might make this clearer

This whole process seems a little arghghgghgh .....no one else ive asked has had to use shims...?? or else they never checked I do totally understand the physics/geometry that has changed here.....im just wondering the best way to be sure of my numbers ....and best way to fix it........shims/rods......etc....

HERE IS THE STAINLESS SHIM KIT --in case anyone has no clue what im talking about
Stainless preload shim Kit Valve tappet lifter V8 Rover all engine 3.5 to 5.0 | eBay

RIMMERBRO HAS THEM AND SOME OTHER PEOPLE .....

thanks in advance !!

 

we need adjustable rocker arms!


It would seem these would work somehow:

350 Rockers | TAPerformance.com

 

I'd try posting this on discoweb too

 

Nothing unusual about using shims, people use them all the time in your situation. Not having adjustable rocker arms sucks if you have had head work done and shims are really the only fix that won't cost you an arm and a leg. Have no fear though they are very reliable and super easy to use.

 

if this is common why cant I find any SHIMS here in the USA??? IF ANYONE KNOWS HOW TO GET THESE ........i really wanna leave OREGON no offense ERIC but im SICK SICK sick of being stuck here waiting for parts and the prospect of waiting for these to come from freaking the UK at the cost of $100 for what clear is a 10$ item is making me kinda wanna suicide...... ive been on the phone all morning and am getting a migrane now

PLEASE WHERE DO I GET ONES THAT FIT within 2-5DAYS AT REASONABLE COST........

THANKS, SIGNED DONE WITH THIS DEPRESSING WEATHER MISSING FLORIDA DEEPLY ......GETME THE F*** OUTTA HERE

 

Ever drink soda from a can? If your stuck in the rain forest for lack of shim stock it's on you from here on out......

 

you could call these guys:

Rover V8 tappet valve lifter preload shim Kit stainless V8 engine 3.5 to 5.0 all | eBay

They used to have a US ebay shop, so they may have someone in the states that stocks their products.

 

Ha what you don't like our partly sunny/cloudy/rainy days with freezing lows and highs in the low 40's? I'd take it over the 110 days in the summer here

As for the shims, I really think most people don't bother (not suggesting) or order them from the UK.

You could make your own by cutting/drilling correct thickness stainless steel sheet stock but that might cost as much as ordering them.

First I'd call these guys though: D&D Fabrication

 

I could be completely off-base here but is this really necessary at all? I only removed .010 from my heads but never gave it another thought. Just bolted everything back together and she seems to be doing fine. Now I admit my situation is different, this isn't my 'forever' vehicle and I'm not about to embark on a cross-country trip pulling a trailer.

Does the .020 limit exist for this very reason? That is, you can take .020 material off without needing the adjustment. Also, you didn't have any material removed from the block.

I see Eric has weighed-in...what did Eric do? I believe you had the block decked as well as the heads. Did you shim?

Finally, have you asked the machine shop for their opinion/advice? Good luck and hang in there...you'll be basking in all the vitamin D you can handle before you know it! Matt

 

Mine didn't need shims.