I have a lot of issues going on at the same time so I thought I would ask about this while I was at it.
I just bought this the other week seemed like a good deal and time will tell I knew it needed work it has 117k on the body and 28k on the engine.
so here is my question about this and I am sure I wont be able to get to this for a while....but when I am driving down the road going straight the steering wheel is cocked to the left oh 45 degrees or so. no wobble doesn't feel weird or anything so what do you think was done? and how do you think I should remedy this?
it will be a while till I can get to this....but I am looking ahead.

96 disco se7

 

Same issue here. happened after replacing all the tie rods. I'm sure there is an adjustment someplace to correct it, but have not found it.

 

If you're tracking straight down the road and you don't have any wobble or pulling, the Previous Owner may have removed the steering wheel or steering linkage at the steering box at some point and misaligned it when putting it back together. Simple fix, unbolt the lower steering u-joint at the steering box and have someone inside hold the steering wheel straight then reassemble it with the steering wheel straight and rebolt the u-joint back together.

 

X2 - Fixed this issue on a buddies Rover this same way. Cam back from a Tie Rod job jacked. But, since the shop only charged $150 for the work AND alignment...hard to complain about spending 30 minutes correcting that.

 

thank you very much// I got a file going I will copy this info and put that in there I have to get to the misfire sputter first but I am glad to hear it is a fairly straight forward fix

 

Shouldn't take you more than 10-15min to do it.

 

a bit more detail about what is going on, that can be an issue because you can wash down your cats if you leave it too long.... dont ask me how i know

 

well ok here goes....I bought it this way mind you it is a 96 disco with 117k on the body and 29 on the engine. it sputters and spits the idle is eratic up and down. it will die if you don't use one foot for the gas and one for the brake. you cand pull codes from the odb2 connector and it isn't just me I took it to autozone... I am thinking that it is the ecm brain...or the bcem....why else would you not be able to connect? so that is my first agenda is getting the motor and the electrical to work right...second is the window regulator....window fell on me on the way home and it was pouring down rain not really a good first impression....I imagine the steering will be third....
the ias has been replaced the throttle body cleaned...the plugs and wires replaced...I really am thinking the computer crapped out...so I need to pull it out of there.

 

First, check your vacuum lines. there should be 5mm lines on the driver side that go to a pump under the jack, and the brake switch, and the bellows on the throttle body. make sure those lines dont have leaks.

second, check yoru plugs and plug wires. these trucks are notorious for having bad plug wires... they dissapate heat really well and it can brake down normal wires. get yourself a solid core set wityh decent insulation. 7-7.5 mm is good and will fit in the stock hangars

perform seafoam cleaning(you can find it in the tech section)

go to the ec module and take of the connector. give it a good cleaning with alcohol on both sides and blow it out with compressed air.

if still no connection to obd, then drop the panel under the stearing wheal to make sure the connector is still connected and none of the pins have been pushed out on the backside.

repost with your status, others may have more to add

 

when you are doing the seafoam cleaning pull your oil separator and clean it and the port real well. this can cause a misfire on that bank if too much is getting through...

Are you leaking any oil from around the valve covers?