The previous owner of my Disco told me when I bought it that it needed rear shocks and that they were "special" for more articulation . So, I noticed they were Rancho's (I know, I know) and with a lifetime warranty, I ordered some in through my store. They should last long enough to buy a windshild and new tires, anyway!
Looking through the catalog I noticed the ones for the Disco as being the only number with a loop/stud combo and couldn't read the number without pulling a wheel, so I figured he was thinking "Rancho" was the special part .
So I pulled it into the garage this weekend for oil change, etc., sprayed a little penetrant on things and saw the "special" - loops on top and bottom!
I know I've seen a mention about this, but my searches haven't found it yet, and I was hopeing to order parts before cut-off time for shipment today - is this a common "mod"? I would have pulled a wheel yesterday, but the oil change turned into a mess - I thought I'd planned on everything - except that the size of drain plug hole x height divided by operator's mental alertness = alot of oil right into my face/floor/(did I mention face?) It took awhile to clean up. But does anyone have any thoughs on what shocks might have been used? Russ

 

There are a lot more loop to loop shocks available than loop to pin so people often go that route. Posting a pic of the rear upper and lower mounts will be helpful in determining your options.

 

I think I'll wait to get a wheel off or some more aggressive scotch-brite to see the numbers. I see now that they have added a lower bracket that bolts below the stock mount and brings the eye mount stud to the front of original position. Russ

 

It sounds like they have some aftermarket shock mounts. There are various. Some shorten the distance between the ends of the shock so that lifted vehicles don't overextend the stock length shocks. Those are the worst kind. Some might simply convert the shock mount type and keep the stock length and distance. Others still extend the distance of the shock mounts so that longer shocks can be fitted.

The best way to measure for your new shocks is to remove the rear springs and drop the frame onto the bump stops. Measure the distance from mount to mount and that will be your compressed length. You can probably get shocks based on the compressed length alone. Order the longest shocks that won't be overcompressed.

The shocks shouldn't act as the limiter on extension, so with the rear springs installed and the shocks removed, determine what is the limiter for extension. Retained springs? Bushings? Do you need limit straps? If you can get a shock that meets the maximum compressed length determined in step 1, that is longer than your extended distance, then your shock will be safe from overextension.

If you have trouble, you may need longer bump stops or limit straps to keep from breaking shocks.

 

The right shocks are ones you can change the shim stacks on to adjust compression and rebound. Fox 2.0, Bilstein 7100, King or SAW. The first two are the most cost-effective in this product category. I like the Bilstein because they make ordering "short body" shocks easy. These shocks have the internal floating piston in a remote reservoir and they have a shorter shock's body with a longer shock's rod. For example, an 10" shock body with a 12" shock rod. So you get a very short compressed length for a relatively long travel distance. Fox, King, and SAW can make short bodies just as well, but you might have to call them to request it. At least I'm not aware of anyone selling them out of stock, but 7100 short bodies are easy to find.

 

The "right" shocks??? There's lots of decent shocks that aren't rebuildable.
OP, sounds like older RTE lower mounts and I'd guess RTE upper mounts to match.
I used to run Rancho's. You might have these.
Rancho RS9000XL Shock Absorbers RS999028 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
You may want to mention how much lift you have and if you have cones or not. Then you'll want to discuss what you want to do with your truck. Then you can move forward with your shock choice.
If you want to simply put a new shock in there measure eye to eye length of your current setup at rest. Buy a new shock who's mid-travel length matches (halfway between compressed an extended).

 

The shock mount appears to be an older Rovertyme that allowed one to put longer travel loop x loop shocks on - the older Rancho RS9905 was the shock "back then", looks like currently the RS999381. I will have to order out of the factory in Arkansas, so I'll pull one off Sunday (the wife is away all day!!!!) or check dimensions/ stamp number first since it is about a week wait. I will stay with Rancho for now since I carry them through NAPA and can handle the warranty myself - which means free shocks! It appears that max articulation was the goal (with sway bars disconnected) for the rocky terrain we have available here.
I forgot to mention that while doing oil change, I spotted the cause of a drivetrain harmonic/vibration I've had recently - the rear driveline coupler is almost ready to let loose!! BPUtah got one out ASAP and I received it today. And I want to put an oil drain plug "coupler" in place (we distribute the Femco line) to try and control the oil stream come oil change time. One thing at a time... Russ

 

Just be aware that the OE plug is narrow profile for a reason....... unless your gonna skid plate over it.

 

Our oil stream equals.......5 cups of coffee and peeing into a northeast wind on the south side of a building.......out doors of course.

 

Still would take an hour......