Need Engine Advice, Please Help!
I have a 1997 D1 with 127-xxx miles one her. I'd noticed some oil underneath the block (and some small spots in the driveway) so I scheduled a pressure test at a well-respected shop. They just called and said that after eye-balling the under-carriage on the lift, I would need the following replacements:
-Intake Manifold Gasket
-Valve Cover Gasket (head gaskets)
-Feed/Return Oil lines
-Crankshaft Bearing Seals
-Sector Shaft (no idea what this is)
They ended the report by stating there were probably more other issues as well.
What I want to know is what other repairs are around the mileage corner? I have had the D1 for five years (and 30k miles) and have not had anything done to the engine besides hose and fluid changes.
I could really use your knowledgeable advice, guys.
Thanks,
Hare
-Intake Manifold Gasket
-Valve Cover Gasket (head gaskets)
-Feed/Return Oil lines
-Crankshaft Bearing Seals
-Sector Shaft (no idea what this is)
They ended the report by stating there were probably more other issues as well.
What I want to know is what other repairs are around the mileage corner? I have had the D1 for five years (and 30k miles) and have not had anything done to the engine besides hose and fluid changes.
I could really use your knowledgeable advice, guys.
Thanks,
Hare
Considering the age and mileage and it is a LR... that entire list is normal and all plausible. While you are at it the O2 sensors should probably be replaced. At their age they are not working efficiently and you could get a bit of increased fuel economy by installing fresh sensors.
Thanks for the advice guys. I was also curious what other repairs are on the way, i.e. cylinders, fuel/ water pumps, etc.
Spike, I don't have those sockets so I will be going to Harbor Freight today. As far as running, Bessie (the D1) went from Lincoln, NE to Phoenix and back in Dec. so I had time to notice that was making a little "throatier" sound (a little higher pitch than normal when accelerating) and there was some loss in power going up hill.
Again, thanks for the advice, if you think of anything else, please let me know!
Hare
Spike, I don't have those sockets so I will be going to Harbor Freight today. As far as running, Bessie (the D1) went from Lincoln, NE to Phoenix and back in Dec. so I had time to notice that was making a little "throatier" sound (a little higher pitch than normal when accelerating) and there was some loss in power going up hill.
Again, thanks for the advice, if you think of anything else, please let me know!
Hare
you are going to need some wobble extensions and a good piece of pipe or breaker bar won't hurt. you should do the water pump if you are doing the head gaskets and also a thermostat and check for dry rot in the hoses.
After you go to Harbor Freight, you will need to go to some place that has a good selection of quality soket sets or order one individually. You need a 12 point 8mm, preferably a 1/4 inch drive because of the tight spacing and lack of access room.
I looked quite a few places and could not find one. I ended up ordering a socket at NAPA and the closest they could come was the 3/8 drive size. It allowed me to get to all but one of the bolt heads. I thought I needed a valley pan gasket, bought the entire upper gasket set figuring I would eventually do it all anyway. Turned out my leak was from loose bolts on the valve covers. The leak stopped when I tightened the bolts. All had worked themselves a bit loose.
I looked quite a few places and could not find one. I ended up ordering a socket at NAPA and the closest they could come was the 3/8 drive size. It allowed me to get to all but one of the bolt heads. I thought I needed a valley pan gasket, bought the entire upper gasket set figuring I would eventually do it all anyway. Turned out my leak was from loose bolts on the valve covers. The leak stopped when I tightened the bolts. All had worked themselves a bit loose.
It sounds like the repair shop is going to replace every thing that could possibly cause an oil leak and then say it might not fix it. I would start with the valve cover gaskets like other guys have said. You can use a 5/16" twelve point socket on the valve cover bolts. A 1/4" drive ratchet is best. You could try just tightening them first. I've had leaks from my valve cover gaskets and the valley pan gasket. It's not uncommon, but, it won't cause any major issues if you keep oil in the truck while you are trying to fix the leak. Of course it always helps if you can locate the leak. If you have to take it into the shop for this, you might want to think about unloading it and getting a Honda or a Nissan. My '96 has about 105K miles and seems now to be leak-free and trouble-free (better knock on wood). You might want to make sure your u-joints and swivel ***** are well lubed, and your transfer case and diffs are full of good oil. If your truck has never had a head gasket job, that might be in your future.
Hilltopper,
So if I do the gaskets, do the water pump as well? Also,the thermostat and hoses have been replaced.
DannyLee,
I discovered this as well. At my fifth stop, I was told about a local tool store that would carry the socket. I was wondering what type of torque wrench to get for this job.
DiscoJag,
I thought my valve covers were leaking and went to a shop to confirm it, as well as see what else might be wrong. None of my friends are car people (pretty sure I'm the only one who changes his oil), so I wanted a second opinion.
Again, guys, thanks for the help!
Hare
So if I do the gaskets, do the water pump as well? Also,the thermostat and hoses have been replaced.
DannyLee,
I discovered this as well. At my fifth stop, I was told about a local tool store that would carry the socket. I was wondering what type of torque wrench to get for this job.
DiscoJag,
I thought my valve covers were leaking and went to a shop to confirm it, as well as see what else might be wrong. None of my friends are car people (pretty sure I'm the only one who changes his oil), so I wanted a second opinion.
Again, guys, thanks for the help!
Hare


