Hello all. Long time lurker, first time poster. I have a D2 that has undergone a complete overhaul with new engine trans and everything else imaginable. My friend loves the trucks so much he went out and bought a 1999 D1 camel tribute. Upon getting the his car the brakes were dead. We bled all using multiple methods and the back were perfect. Front had nonstop bubbles. Checking over the system, no leaks were present. Next step we bought a new OEM master, same results. Had the ABS block rebuilt. Same results. Now when bleeding, the pedal will be soft, pump up after a few pushes and feel okay, and then 5-6 pumps in the large bubbles will be gone but then microscopic ones start to form, making the fluid look milky and the pedal hits the floor. Every time, with both fronts looking the exact same. The only things not replaced are the booster and the pressure reduction valve. We’ve spent countless hours on this and are completely lost now. If anyone has some insight to this issue I would greatly appreciate it as I don’t want him to lose faith in this thing before he gets to drive it. Thanks!

 

I'm sorry, I can't help with the issue, but did he buy this off eBay from a buyer in Florida recently? If so, I was looking at buying it and the seller was really sketchy.

The truck had like 8 owners throughout its life, the owner said it had been clocked at 244,xxx miles and not what the odometer said, and when I asked for maintenance records, he said "my friend replaced all the parts". I'm interested to see how this truck turns out.

 

Yes, he ended getting the price way down but many things were not as described. Shipping took almost 4 weeks. Apart from brakes the only real issues are a large oil pan leak and a horribly put together exhaust. As well as many juvenile repairs that should be easy to reverse. The seller described a spongy petal that was still pretty solid, but we found that he knew it was much more than that as he tried to bleed them all and put a new master on it before selling with it still hitting the floor. There is no rust apart from one passenger patch and the drivetrain seems healthy. Once those three are sorted it should be a solid truck. We’re not sure about the mileage because many of the regular wear components look more like a 1xx,xxx mile car.

 

Hopefully you can get them figured out. She's a beaut from the outside if nothing else! I wondered if people got sucked in bc of the livery then were in way over their heads (or just didn't want to do any maintenance). Sounds like she may be in good hands now though.

I offered 6k for it, but the seller declined. It looks like he then sold it for 6k though? haha. I had a conversation with him and it was all around just really sketchy. I would have for sure pulled the trigger at 6k regardless, though. I don't blame your friend.

 

I believe he was able to get it for under 6k including shipping to central Ohio paid for by the seller. All in all still a decent deal. I just hope we can figure this out in a timely fashion.

 

Central Ohio, you say?? He should check out the 'Green Oval Guild' on Facebook, They're a group of folks i run with. If he gets stuck with it, there are some knowledgeable folks in the club.

 

When I got mine the brakes didnt work at all so I had to go over the whole system. I did the whole new fluid thing, bleeding, etc, just to then find out that all my brake lines were rotted. You may very well have rotted lines somewhere letting air in or water, making it milky. Also, if you value your life I highly recommend going over the calipers as well and making sure they work properly before setting off for the highway. The calipers can be bought brand new for pretty cheap and are the same price as a rebuilt kit, ask me how I know lol.

I would also check your flex lines, the rubber ones might be cracked and you didnt mention if you had them replaced with stainless or at least new rubber ones. That might be your issue on the front and is more likely than rotted front lines.

 

I second what weekendwarriors87 is communicating….

Last winter I did a brake overhaul, calipers, rotors, and bearings. At the time there were some extremely beat up brake piping present so I did the hoses, and the back and front lines. I did not touch the long runs or the ones coming from the Wabco abs.

It was getting too cold to work outside in Wisconsin to attempt the entirety. Especially after I fought with those extremely long threaded (British thread?) connections that go to the hoses in the rear. They were horrible.

Did a similar bleed that you reference, got rid of bubbles, and sealed er up. Brake pedal still super spongy, but because it was an improvement of siezed up calipers before the job and being a newb now I made due.

I have my D1 on blocks right now overhauling all the suspension components/bushings , front stubs, steering, and I noticed the back tee connector for the rear was leaking. So I am going to be putting it all back together and do the exact process you are at now.

If you want to try a couple of things before the brake pipe job: check all the connections for leaks, keep pumping and bleeding. Maybe if it continues maybe before you commit to doing all the brake pipes you could look to see if the D1 master cylinder seal replacement kit is as easy as the D2 master cylinder seal replacement kit maybe look into that?

 

I replaced the Master cylinder and it was good for about 5 months, then started leaking internally. I replaced it again with the same results. I then went with a Land Rover original used Master Cylinder and it has worked good ever since (about 2 years now)
The original problem was that I would have to add fluid each day before I drove it or it would run low and I'd have to bleed it again. I found using a vacuum pump (the hand actuated one from Amazon) worked quite well you open the bleeder and suck fluid out until it is clear. just make sure reservoir is full. and you don't suck all the fluid out.

If it is the front brakes, I'd be checking those flex hoses too.

 

I have read that any remanufactured cylinders will fail quickly, and to always use the Genuine LR.

Please verify and go through posts. There is definitely information about this on the forum.