Hey all, 99 D1 here.
So my unusually reliable D1 has decided to go on strike almost immediately coinciding with when I put a British Leyland sticker on it...
So here's the deal. It will crank all day, and I about electrocuted myself with the amount of spark it's putting out. Reeks of fuel badly, so I assume we have almost a flooding condition with it. It's always pretty well, but lately runs INSANELY rich. 8mpg on a good day, leaves black stains where it's been idling, some smoke when it's floored but this is all fairly recent.
So I parked it to do brakes and the servo went kaput while bleeding it, then I didn't mess with it over the holidays. Come back to crank it, battery is dead. Buy new battery and now it'll crank all day but is dead as a doornail. All theft system things are working correctly, code reader is picking up MAF and TPS along with cranking RPM. No codes whatsoever. Previously had a P1316 I believe (Misfire excessive emissions fault) while it was running rich and occasionally a P0300 for random miss. Check engine light on in POS II. No idea what's going on here, I consider myself to be pretty good with these cars but I'm flummoxed. I have the oxygen sensors disconnected because when it was running badly, it would fall on its face and die with them plugged in if you got anywhere near the throttle. Disconnecting the O2's seemed to solve it.
Anyway, help would be much appreciated as we're supposed to get snow and my lowered RWD station wagon is horrific in any kind of inclement weather. Thanks guys.

 

Are your plugs soaked because if they are and have been soaked for awhile you'll never get it started. Go get some fresh plugs if that's the case, let the others sit it out awhile so the insulators can dry out. Spares. How much fuel is in the tank? If your under a half tank and it's been wet, warm/cold during the time it's sat you may have moisture (water) in fuel. Treat it.

Do me (and you) a favor and remove the idle air control solenoid and tell me what it looks like (or a picture). If it's carbon loaded clean the pintle and bore carefully so the pintle will sit on the aluminum seat. Some no starts and lousy fuel mileage are due to that problem.

The fact that your getting the CEL on position II is a good sign, means the ECU is still connected/working. When you don't see the CEL it means ECU is roasted.

Reconnect your O2's please. Your forcing the ECU into open loop which means it's going to over fuel no matter what. You only want a cold engine to over fuel like a choke. Over fueling or remaining in open loop is also a sign of the ECU's temp sensor going tango uniform. Verify if you get motor running. It will throw a code.

No starts can also be attributed to MAF failure. Unplug it and try starting once you've done the things I've mentioned first. Clean the MAF while it's cold, they have cleaner for them at the auto parts palaces.

So your getting fresh plugs, dry fuel, MAF cleaner and a can of carb and choke cleaner for the IAC carbon.

What you say now?