So I'm trying to track down a non Rotoflex drive shaft for my '96 Disco. Can anyone tell me what shafts will work? I've heard "early Range Rovers" but don't know what years.

Cheers

 

Im not sure on the RRC's but late 97-99 DI's had the regular Ujoint driveshafts.

 

What I did was buy a 98 DI rear d/s from my local recycler, but they had already sold the mating rear diff which I had planned on buying it as well.

The rotoflex has a 3 bolt flange, the other d/s uses a 4 bolt flange, which I purchased a used flange and the required spacer from Paul Grant. A new nylock locknut is also required and a seal which was supplied by our fellow member Antichrist at a very good price. As such, I had less than $150 total in mine. An upgrade D/S retaols for right at $300 or so from Rovers North plus shipping. Sonce I got the d/s locally there was no shipping on it, but I did have the two other smaller purchases.

Getting the new one in was a little bit tricky as the Discovery d/s length varies based upon the splined joint where the two pieces join. It is made to allow for variations in terrain and such in use. At first attempt, the length of mine was a little too long to get it in, and when I compressed it, I got too aggressive and compressed it such that it was about 1.5 inches shorter than needed to mate right up. I bolted the front flange to the parking brake bolts, lined up the d/s using a jack stand to support it and placed longer bolts in as guide pins and used a combination of
c-clamps and vice grips to bring the flanges together to allow the mounting bolts to fit properly. I had purchased the mounting bolts from Antichrist as well. Tom Rowe was really a lifesaver in getting this done. He makes fantastic chassis ground cables as well. A true gentleman and Land Rover Scholar.

You might want to check with ShadowMerchant as he had a new upgraded d/s on the 98 he was parting out. Even though his 98 should have had a regular d/s on his since it is a 98? I have not seen him on here lately. I hope he is doing well these days with his dead 98 D1.

Getting that 3 bolt flange off was a real challenge, but I perservered and managed to get it done anyway. I am very happy with the outcome on mine. It rides very smoothly with the new d/s mounted.

 

Just curious why you want to replace the rotoflex?

 

In my case, the rotoflex had crapped out during the winter with my son driving it in bad weather. The rear flange was damaged (one tab broke off), I had a spare rotoflex but it did not last long with the damaged flange.

I converted mine for less than the price of a new rotoflex and a new 3 bolt flange.

It feels a lot better as well.

 

I have what feels like drivetrain vibration after my 2" TF lift..

+ I've been told numerous times they are junk so it's a "may as well" upgrade. I'm going to lock the diff and disconnect the front propshaft then do the same with the rear just to confirm that is my problem.

The rule of not driving on bitcherman with the diff locked does not apply if one of the prop shafts are removed correct?

 

I know I have read that pror to removing your d/s you should punch mark it to remount it the same as it was.

The d/s has a welded on tab for balancing. If you change the orientation from original it will vibrate. So there is a 1 in 4 chance of remounting it as it was.

Also, on mine the tab was rusting away, and a rear flamge on the diff was broken away at one tab, so it would vibrate from that.

Either buy a quality upgrade kit or piece it like I did. A good criveline shop can build you one as well if they are well stocked. You may need a place like that to balance it for you.

Mine went together just right, no vibration at all with my "new" shaft.

Rides great too.