The problem with the OEM setup is how quickly it can clog up. Then it is not easy to remove and clean without just crumbling to bits. A normal PCV will work better longer, and will just require cleaning at say every oil change with some carb spray. A working PCV will prevent excessive crankcase pressure to build up (from a clogged OEM baffle). Which if clogged will lead to valve cover, oil pan, front seal, rear seal, and front timing cover leaks due to excessive pressure. The PCV install is a no brainer, super simple, easy to service, and it will not just crumble to bits.

The PCV Upgrade I've created for the Bosch engine works excellent with zero issues. Same thing would apply with one being used on a GEMS engine and as long as the PCV fits say the OEM line you will not have a flow issue due to size of the opening at the intake.

 

Nice!

 

Standard Motor Products P/N V164 PCV Valve should do the trick with some new hose from the valve cover to the PCV, and then to the intake.

 

Great find Best4x4!
So would this be positioned in skinny end up (as if this would be the first part going into the hose)?

Same size hose or different size?
More than one hose?
Clamps?

Thanks

 

Should just be able to get some hose and slide it over the PCV. The smaller end = toward the intake & the slightly larger end = toward the valve cover side.

FV232 & V164 = same thing. It's off of a late 70's to early 80's Jeep with a V8.

 

Awesome Best4x4!
You have been a huge help in figuring this out and sharing bigtime. I have placed an order for the PCV valves and my setup should be complete this week.

THANK YOU!

 

I've been meaning to eliminate the hoses and just put old style breathers on both valve covers.

 

No problem!

 

After your first response I did some searching as I was clueless, and it looks like you have rock star status over with this mod!

 

I just changed some hoses and included the two PCV hoses and did the oil separator - it came out with a little effort - it did have the first disk level with the valve cover tube so I used a flat blade screw driver to get it pride-up a bit then used needle nosed pliers to get out rest of the way - it had some crud but not horrible - cleaned and reused - I did take out the plenum plug and clean too

when I used a small round copper brush to clean the valve cover tube - I noticed it was stopped from going all the way thru - as I said the oil separator also was not completely below the top of the tube

Question - what keeps the oil separator from dropping thru ? is it just the tight fit and upward pressure ? is there something at the bottom of the tube (other than the oil separator) could I possibly have 1 disk of an old separator at the bottom of the tube that keeps the separator from fitting below the top of the tube ?

there is also a good british atlantic youtube video (pcv) showing the replacement of the separator and hoses - they show the separator all the way inside the tube albeit their separator has only one stem on the top - mine from LR has a top and bottom stem

So much for such a little item