Hello out there well I have a 97 Disco and here is my problem:
I installed a new radiator,water pump. Hoses fan clutch working fine so far I drove it a few miles and I stopped to get food waiting in line at the drive through for maybe a few minutes the temp climbed I turned it off got my food then turn it on drove off few seconds later the temp went down to the norm and it didn’t happened again and I drove it for about an hour after that so did I miss something on all those installations I did? What can I do or check?

 

When you say it's overheating are you monitoring temps via a Scangauge II, Utragauge, or an OBD2 Bluetooth device via your phone? If a D1/D2 is truly overheating the efans will kick on around the 210-212F mark. When you are stopped the Fan Clutch is what engages/disengages to keep up with the heat load due to reduced airflow thru the radiator. I personally run HD fan clutches on all my D1/D2's. If you never hear the efans running (without the AC on then either it's not overheating or your efan's are dead).

 

No I don’t have any specific tools or gauges just to gauge on the dash the temperature was rising while I was staying put that’s it I did replace the fan clutch as I said you said the other fan I didn’t check that so is there a way I can check it the steps to do it?

 

There is a fuse for the efans and then you can just test em yourself with a 12v battery and some alligator clips. Loosen the top Radiator support bolts which go from the radiator to the front core support. That will allow you to tilt the radiator back. That should allow you to peek in and see the 2 round connectors for the efans. Simply unplug em and using the alligator clips + to the blue lead & - to the black lead. The fan should instantly turn on. If nothing you have a dead efan. 96 Toyota Corolla Efan motor is 100% identical. You can usually strip em down at the junk yard & simply re-used your fan blade, and efan housing. I normally can buy them for 5.00 each stripped down like that from a pick n pull type junk yard.

 

Hello dmenchaca... my guess is that you probably did not bleed your cooling system entirely and a pocket of hot air was trapped by the sensor. But the more important, get a obd dongle and spend the $5 for a smart phone app. You'll be able to see info directly as it is fed into the engine ECU, including coolant temp. This will save you hours of time and guesswork.

See this link for details

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...02/#post581013

 

Not necessarily.. Had problems with mine (and still do) with the dash gauge going up and down. replaced thermostat, sensors, water pump, new fans (they didnt work) and it still moves all over the place. The temp readout on my OBDII scanner shows it was fluctuating and after replacing the temp sensor (there are 2 of them) it is now constant, but the dash gauge still pegs all the time. I stopped once when it was pegged, coolant tank wasn't pressurised, and I was able to grab the upper radiator hose which was only slightly warm, and even stick a finger in the tank which was also slightly warm. I used a digital thermometer, the laser type and read the temp at the thermostat (and other spots) which showed 170 degrees. DO NOT troubleshoot using the dash gauge as they are terribly inaccurate. if the sensor is off, then your scanner may be off too.

That being said, I agree, it sounds like an air bubble in the cooling system. they can be a real pain to bleed out.

The e-fans can be replaced with a different fan, I believe it is a toyota (?) fan. use the number on the fan motor

 

What’s the proper way to bleed the system I’m thinking I still need to get a gallon of antifreeze of what it sounds but I checked the reservoir and it’s at a good level When I checked all the hoses I found out couple hoses needs to be tightened up also I don’t know steps upon steps thanks for the reply let me know how it works

 

If the reservoir is at the correct level (just over the X post which emerges from the bottom of the tank) allow the truck to warm up to 'normal' operating temp. Turn on the heat all the way up and the cabin fans on full. Run the engine at 2500 RPM for 30 seconds. You should feel heat from the vents at this point.

Turn off the truck and check the level of the coolant in the reservoir. Top off as needed.

Take a short drive around the neighborhood (1-3 miles). Check the reservoir again and top off as needed.

That is all I have ever done to bleed mine. Engine speed is the key. You need the speed of the circulating coolant to force the air into the reservoir.

 

Hello, I had an interesting but similar experience with the temp gauge swinging and many times going straight to Hot. With my handheld I recognized I was never getting over 215-220 F. We had done a head gasket replacement and assumed air was in the heater core. Fought air bleeding approach for weeks. Gave up and started looking at the alternator output since I had added an amp and a sub … realized the alternator voltage was low (high 11 - mid 12 vdc output). Checked / cleaned battery grounds and no change. Read on the forum to run a new ground from the engine to the frame. I grounded the alternator bracket to the same frame ground connection as the battery and voltage output jumped to high 13 vdc. Now the car runs better, better amp output, and the temp gauge stays at normal (actual) temp. This truck is a 97 D1 v8 4.0.


good luck

 

Interesting.... I have seen lights flickering (at night) which was a result of a bad alternator, but it didn't occur to me to test the ground for a flaky temp gauge. Worth a try!!