No both of those are at a you wrench it salvage yard.
Nothing in the interior of either truck is salvageable.

Power steering fluid is a oil, the exhaust manifolds get really hot, spray hot oil on a hot manifold and you have fire.

 

Wow,

Those are some pretty scary pics.

I had what I thought was a power steering leak that I never could find. I kept getting red fluid dripping around the driver's side front wheel well.

I finally located the source. It was a pinhole in one of the transmission cooling lines going to the little cooler in front of the radiator, the round one behind the grill. I found it by laying underneath with a bright flashlight.

With it running, it sprayed a fine pinpoint spray from a pinhole in the metal portion of the line. Took several weeks before I could pinpoint the source. It would soak the wheel well area and drip on long drives.

 

So can you give more specifics on which wire has the shorting problem, what the cause was, which system the wire was a part of, etc? Like I said, I got in there and didn't notice any worn wires, but there are plenty in there to choose from. Also, I've been placing my hand directly on the metal under the lever boot to feel it. I don't think a chunk of metal like that will easily be electrified to the point of heating, without electrifying my hand along with it.
In regards to the earlier question about the rubber stuff on the trans case, I was actually just talking about that rubber boot attached to the underside of the body, above the trans case. This is where the park brake cable comes out of the cabin, and begins it's run down to the brake drum. So no, the trans case does not have rubber coating. Just dirt coating.
I've checked the oil, tranny and coolant servicing, and it's all good. Everything was supposed to have been serviced up prior to purchase, and appears to have been. I should probably double check the transfer case as well, for good measure.

 

It is a wire under the truck, not in the console.
Here is where the grounds are.
http://www.roverparts.com/TechTips/g...l_problems.cfm
This may or may not be your problem with the hot parking brake handle, but I would def check into it.
My handle does not get hot even after driving for 4 hours in 95*F weather.

 

Thanks, I'll check these out. I'm a believer in doing what you can to keep little problems from becoming big problems, and from what I've read here, that seems to be especially important with Rovers.

 

Rovers love attention.

 

So I got sidetracked with tracking down a roof leak after it rained all night. Every time I braked or turned, water came out from the above the sun visor. Awesome.

So after finding a few spots that could use some RTV, I decided to go ahead and go back and check the transfer case fluid, which leads me to my next question:

What jackass decided to put the drain/fill plug half behind the park brake drum, and about 1.5 inches behind it? Does anyone have a trick for getting this open? The size of that plug requires the big ratchet, and I feel wrong putting a universal in there, then cranking away at it, with the tool leveraging against the brake drum.

I worked on Harriers for several years, and I'm starting to have flashbacks about spending WAY too much time trying to fit my tools where I needed them. I'm beginning to have my doubts about British engineering.

 

Welcome to the club.

As for the rain water, check and make sure the roof rails are tight.
If not you will need to remove the head liner to tighten them.
Another leak is the sun roof drains.

As for the t-case fill plug, a 3" extension works as well as a 6".
I personally just stick my ratchet behind the parking brake cable and loosen the plug, remove the ratchet and remove the plug by hand (only because I cant find my extension after my son used it).

 

What I found to work pretty good on the fill plug is just a good half inch ratchet without even an extension. Laying on my back under the vehicle, I reached my hand over and approached it from above. Using a good light, I ensured the square drive head was squarely seated in the fill plug and keeping it square, I was able to break torque and then work it a few clicks at a time until I could loosen it the rest of the way by hand. That bundle there is in the way but is flexible enough to work the ratchet into place.

I had also sprayed it real good with PB Blaster for a couple of days in advance. Make sure you can get the fill plug out before you drain it.

Also to make it easy to fill, buy a cheap handpump from Advance Auto. They have one that screws on quarts or gallon jugs. Much easier than trying to squeeze the bottle in such limited access.

Use a long ratchet handle to make it easier. Muich better lever action. Take it slow and steady so you don't bust it or your hand.

 

Yeah, once I stopped being a pansie about it, I just got after it with the universal wedged against the brake drum. That brake drum might as well be useful for something. Fluid level looked okay, but you guys were right about the hand pump. It's on the list.
As for the water, I opened the sunroof, vacuumed it out a little, then tried pouring a little water down into the tray, and it seemed to drain out onto the floor okay. I did notice one spot in the upper left corner of the exterior windshield seal that had a considerable gap, and the rear of the plastic sunroof surround on the roof had a small gap. So sometime soon I'll see about getting a nice little seal in those spots.
In the meantime, I've got to go get an oil change, so I can baseline my oil servicing. It seems to be leaking quite a bit from the main pulley seal. Looks like I may have lost a few quarts over the last week or so.