Yeah - just like anything in life - you get what you pay for .... If I want 100% assurance its good I can always buy a rebuilt one with a warranty ... for $5k.

I would agree with what you wrote but my current engine has a fully rebuilt top end so if this engine has a cracked block or slipped sleeve, I will be stuck with two 4.0L engines with a 2 X broken blocks. The fact that it failed emissions (like my current truck) before the guy gave up (my words not his) and converted to diesel scares me even more ...

In all liklihood though for a D1 even if the engine had problems it was probably a HG issue and not a slipped liner (seems to be more a D2 problem) and me buying a HG kit (again) and putting my heads on it should solve the problem.

I just am already sunk $4k into a truck worth less than that if running and I guess the idea of blowing another $400 just makes me feel sick.

 

To clarify - I would rather spend $400 on a block than on a $400 engine ... at least then I can visually inspect the block and it is alot easier to bring to a shop for a quick pressure test.

 

it could have failed emissions because of O2's, MAF, injectors, or 500 other things not related to the engine itself. Gems engines are not known for slipped sleeves although it is possible i doubt this is the case for this engine..

Like I said, buy the engine and dissassemble it all. Take the block and heads as well as any other used components to the machine shop and have them checked out. then reaasemble it with new bearings and whatever else you have kept or bought (like a new cam) and then you will have a solid engine for a LOT less than 5k.

If the block turns out to be bad then take both of them to the scrap yard and get a couple bucks for them. The buy one that is known good and has been tested.

It's not rocket surgery. You're just over complicating things because you are worried.

 

I dont think he is so much worried as he is butt hurt over how much money he has plunked out.... But hey , its either take a 400 dollar chance or a 5k gurantee

 

Hit the nail on the head ....

And so did you, filbs...

I've built about 5-6 cars in the past and never got like this before. And yes - I am never one to fork over the hidden insurance premiums you pay on some items (such as buying a new car) so I don't know why I won't take a risk now. Probably should just do it and hope for the best. Like you said - worst case I have 200 lb of scrap aluminum.

Man - this car has been an experience like non-other. The more I work on this thing I think they called it a discovery because no matter what you do you will always discover something else that is broken. The thing is just nickle and diming me to death -

first a rad (thought it was fixed) then failed emissions and replaced O2 and other sensors, then noticed bubbles did HG, and now apparently the HG wasn't the problem after all (my bad for not doing more due dilligence when the heads were off the block).

This in addition to my headliner job, 4 wheel brakes, CV joint replacement, door lock repair, unsticking the transfer case lever, changing all the fluids (all jobs - that I should have waited until the engine was working and emissions passed before ever thinking about) but hey ....

Live and learn ...

 

Just said I would take a risk on it and offered him $300.... he said sure, no questions asked.

Now I am really worried.

 

or the dude just wants it out of his garage.

i know i have a couple (running, good) vw motors laying around that im about ready to give away as the space is worth more than the time spent haggling.

who knows though...

 

Ok ok, you kinda got me there.
It really does not need 30psi just to start and idle for a few min.
Starting fluid into the intake would do the same thing, at least he could here it run then.

 

Well I am the proud owner of a 96 disco with a v16 engine - half mounted under the hood and half 'rear mounted' in the trunk. The 'rear' engine is lying on its side in a mini puddle of oil and hopefully will morph with my "front engine" to create a properly running v8.

I think, as of now, I am happy with my $300 purchase - full engine incl. Fuel injectors, intake, headers, exhaust manifolds, water pump, plug wires, coils, etc. Figure I can probably get half my money back in parts and scrap aluminum worst case. Going to bring the block to the shop on Monday to get checked out and if it is good I will order new head gasket and bolts and assemble with the heads I had rebuilt a couple weeks ago.

On that note - think I can reuse the intake and exhaust gaskets or should I replace those as well? They are only 2 weeks old but don't know if the valley pan is the kind that can only be compressed once?

 

likely there are plenty of other parts missing that would prevent it from running... and running with open headers itd probably not be a very happy camper anyway. it wasnt tuned for no backpressure.
you might get some pops and a few revs out of it, but itd be too loud and jerky to tell whether anything was wrong with it.


just not a good idea...