Thanks. I recently purchased a Faultmate MSV-2 and expected to be able to do the same and more, but haven't seen any option for it.

I have posted this in it own thread twice once by mistake and some replies
 

Alright here we go this may be out there already but from what I have read/found no one has a straight answer. Please read completely before you start and disconnect your batter if you want to I didn't and it still worked.

These are the steps that I took to remove the immobilizer on my 98 disco after reading the wiring diagrams found on this site . ( This only works if you have the non spider immobilizer.) late 96-99 models. If this does not work then you probably have some thing else wrong and the immobilizer is not your issue according to the wiring diagrams I have read. This worked for me and may or may not for you.:)

1. Look for the green box under the glove box at passenger foot well. It is between the ECM and passenger kick plate that is your security box. If you do not know what it looks like there are many pics of it on this site but for those who don't want to check it is green rectangle with a slopped top on onside.

2. There are two plugs on this box a big one and a small one. The big plug is black and that is for your inputs for the windows locks etc. The small plug is your out puts and the one you will be dealing with (small one) it should be green or white depending on where you are and from the pics I have seen.

3. On the small plug there are two wires that are black with red/orange stripe.( Solid black and red/orange stripe.) Cut these two wires on the loom side only and twist them together. Leave enough wire in case you have to put them back together again. ( This is an immobilizer fix and not an alarm fix.)

4. If you have done this right put your key in and your disco should crank up.:)

5. If you have the bonging alert noise inside the cab and you ring around the key switch is red the plug for that is above the key switch to get access to the plug you need to remove the plastic form the steering column you will see it as soon as you remove the plastic.( small white one)

I did this last night and my 98 disco that would not crank with out having the key in the on position and taking a screw driver and going across the starter coil will now crank and run by using the key only.:D

This is a temp. fix to get you going if the immobilizer decides to shut you down for no reason. I'm going to leave mine this way but you can do as you wish.

I do not have a key fob so I can not tell you if the remote door unlock still works. They should still work because all you have done is taken the immobilizer out of the loop.

I also have an spider by pass plug for those TDi's and 95 and back models if any one needs one

I will post pics later if needed.

95 Disco 175,000 miles
98 Disco 150,000 miles
97 Disco 171,000 miles

I would still rather have a Land Rover and B.L problems than own a Ford .

I will post pics this weekend on the what I did.

I know this is a grave dig but this is the closest thing to finding a solution to my immobilizer issue that has been bugging me for the last 3 years.
I have an Jan 98 TDI auto disco that decided to immobilize while i was driving around a round a bout about 500m from my work , i wired up a bypass switch as a work around as the disco is my daily driver.
I have had the unit apart looking for a dry solder joint similar to what plagues the window lift ecu but didnt find anything obvious.
Even though its a RHD vehicle i believe that Aus got the rest of world spec vehicles like the US did so i hope it will fix my problem also, will see if i get time after work tomorrow to look at it.

I got around to trying this today but it didnt work for me, i still dont have power to injector pump or glow plug tell tale light on dash.

From reading this it appears so far only two things can be done on an American Model for my 96 Disco

1. disconnect hood switch (where is that?)
2. cut and spliced the two wires described earlier in this thread to bypass immobilizer.

Anyone come up with any other info since this was written. Would simply love to just remove whole alarm system?


damn... wish I could have a friday that lasted this long. After what 3 years you've still not moved on into the weekend to take pics.:D

Ok, disconnected hood switch by under hood fuse box

cut and spliced together the black w/ orange-red striped wires as prescribed

Result- NO CHANGE on start. Still just turns engine over

Some of the alarm lights are off now.

Recognized then Auto tranny will not move out of park either. Is this also an alarm thing?

Wait..... hmmmm.... did I possibly tie the wrong two ends together? Which do you tie together? ..... the two ends that come out of the plug that fits into the Green Alarm box or the two ends that disappear up into the loom? His instructions above could be interpreted several ways.

Post in another thread "I think" says the same about the two wires as mentioned previously here but their route would essentially tie both sides cause they kept the wiring intact and added a jumper into the plug. So can't tell from that discussion which should be tied together.

I tied the two ends from the loom NOT the two out of the plug.

Also discovered my sun roof leaks bad. Or maybe rain leaked in also from other rust holes so the floor is all wet in this area and the alarm box (and who knows what else) is wet too. might.... might not be a factor.

Looks like I'm mostly talking to myself but for future reference if anyone else needs help. Found some new info. this part "may" pertain to this situation but it is actually written for Range Rover owners so it may or may not apply

"Unlocking, Disarming and Remobilization
The theft alarm is disarmed by pressing the unlocking button on the remote. The RF receiver located in the right hand side of the loadspace conveys this signal to the BeCm which decodes it and, if the code is correct, unlocks the doors and disarms the alarm. On 1995 models, the vehicle is then in an unarmed state.
On 1996 and later models with passive immobilization enabled (UK, Europe? but not North America or Australia), if the key is not inserted into the ignition within 30 seconds of unlocking with the remote handset or EKA procedure (see below), the BeCM reverts to the immobilized condition. The engine remains immobilized until the remote/key is inserted into the ignition, closing the "key in" switch and activating a "Passive Immobilization Coil" (Z270) around the barrel of the the ignition switch. The electromagnetic field from this coil excites a receiving coil in the remote key handset. If the remote is acting normally (for example, does not have a dead battery), it will then transmit a mobilization signal to the BeCM via the RF receiver. The BeCM then disarms the vehicle and remobilizes the engine.
On all models, when the unarmed state has been achieved, the BeCM transmits a mobilisation code to the engine ECM commencing 48 milliseconds after the ignition is turned on, and until it receives a confirmation signal from the ECM telling it to illuminate the "Check Engine" light (as an indication of correct operation) and allows engine cranking when requested. In turn, the ECM enables engine fuelling and proceeds to allow all engine controls to act normally. " I'll check to see if the check engine light illuminates next time I try to start her. Will do this before doing anything else.

here is the whole article Security and Alarm System Operation & Diagnosis on Range Rover 4.0/4.6/P38A

Any Update on this?