Replace Exhaust Manifold?
#1
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Good day all, I am turning to the forums for some advice, and maybe even guidance...
I bought my D1 with a lot of miles and a few issues. In that time I have put 15k on the truck, and it's turning out to be a very solid D1 with 210k+ miles. The previous owner maintained it well (or well enough), and I have sorted the issues down to just two problems. The driver's side window doesn't always want to go up (phantom electrics) and the huge crack in the exhaust manifold, right passenger side.
I've driven the truck for over a year with the crack, it's not too bad when cruising, but in traffic it can be loud and I do worry about possible fumes. So that leads me to replacing it, but with the miles I worry about breaking bolts. I plan on buying all new parts gaskets and the like for the replacement job, but I wanted to get some insight to see if there were any tricks, or things to avoid when trying to take the old one off. TIA
I bought my D1 with a lot of miles and a few issues. In that time I have put 15k on the truck, and it's turning out to be a very solid D1 with 210k+ miles. The previous owner maintained it well (or well enough), and I have sorted the issues down to just two problems. The driver's side window doesn't always want to go up (phantom electrics) and the huge crack in the exhaust manifold, right passenger side.
I've driven the truck for over a year with the crack, it's not too bad when cruising, but in traffic it can be loud and I do worry about possible fumes. So that leads me to replacing it, but with the miles I worry about breaking bolts. I plan on buying all new parts gaskets and the like for the replacement job, but I wanted to get some insight to see if there were any tricks, or things to avoid when trying to take the old one off. TIA
#2
#3
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Camm, Here are a couple tips: 1. If a stud on the flange snaps, there are replacement kits with three studs and nuts available, so you might want to have those on hand if you need to finish the job quickly. 2. You could reuse (pound out flat) the metal tabbed bolt retainers at the head connection bolts, but new ones are easy to get (there are four). The old ones are probably all rusty and may be weak.
As for the window, most likely culprit is the console switch (since it is used a lot). This is easy: Try swapping with the passenger switch (or rear window), or take it apart and clean up the contacts. That might chase the phantom away
As for the window, most likely culprit is the console switch (since it is used a lot). This is easy: Try swapping with the passenger switch (or rear window), or take it apart and clean up the contacts. That might chase the phantom away
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#5
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The window issue could be a cold solder on the window ECU.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...11/#post774813
removing the window ecu can be a pain, but not hard.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...11/#post774813
removing the window ecu can be a pain, but not hard.
#6
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If you do pull out the board to solder as in the video, be careful to not bend the card enough to break it. They bend, but only so far. Ask me how I know....
If you want to replace it, DM me and I'll give you a price you will not beat anywhere for a good used. And I'll throw in a bad used if you're interested....
If you want to replace it, DM me and I'll give you a price you will not beat anywhere for a good used. And I'll throw in a bad used if you're interested....
The window issue could be a cold solder on the window ECU.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...11/#post774813
removing the window ecu can be a pain, but not hard.
https://youtu.be/kt6odNB3c8s
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...11/#post774813
removing the window ecu can be a pain, but not hard.
https://youtu.be/kt6odNB3c8s
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