Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

Rotoflex write up

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Old 05-20-2011, 10:12 AM
losinov's Avatar
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Default Rotoflex write up

I recently changed my rotoflex and centering bearing out because my current rotoflex looked like it had been to morodor and back. So if you are thinking about doing this job there are three methods you can take. I will be describing numbers 1 and 2 and the third will be in a linked writeup on discoweb.

1. Replace just the rotoflex and not the centering bearing (20-30 min)
2. Replace the rotoflex as well as the centering bearing (1 hour - 2 hours)
3. Convert that dumb rotoflex shaft to a u joint driveshaft (prob a day or so)

Parts needed:
1. Driveshaft Rubber Coupling for Range Rover Classic | Land Rover wheels, tires, hubs, axles
2. Land Rover Discovery & Range Rover Classic Driveshaft Rubber Coupling - Land Rover Wheels and Tire Parts at Roverparts.com
3. Driveshaft Conversion Kit for Discovery I | Land Rover wheels, tires, hubs, axles (there are a few ways to do this but the kit listed there has everything you'd need)
Write up on DiscoWeb: http://www.discoweb.org/rotoconversion.htm

Procedure:
1. Remove the 6 bolts holding the rotoflex between the differential and the rear drive shaft.
2. Use a large flat head screw driver and compress the drive shaft until you can slide the driveshaft to the side of the pinion on the differential.

---- inspect the centering bearing in the rear drive shaft in the middle of the rotoflex and see if the spring and internal components look good, if they don't then continue on to replacing that bearing, if they look okay then put the new rotoflex back on and pat yourself on the back. -----

3. go ahead and pull the entire drive shaft off of the transfer case, just pull back on it until it separates from the transfer case shaft. Now you can work on removing that bearing in a better environment like a workshop.

4. This is the toughest most time consuming part of this procedure. I tried multiple methods and succeeded using the last method I tried about 3 hours later. Just take my advice and don't try any of the methods I will mention. The best way to do this is to get the puller tool from Land Rover which I didn't have access to. I tried chiseling it out with an air chisel, blow torching the outside of the shaft to expand the metal and pull it using vice grips and finally took a dremel to the inside of it. HOW TO GET THAT BITCH OUT OF THERE: Take a hand dremel with a stone grind bit that is wide, kind of like a mini oil drum. Remove the black internals from the inside of the bearing and you will see where the bearing sits up against the driveshaft now. You now know how far back you need to go. Begin shaving down the inside of the bearing in a straight line and take note of the diameter of the bearing wall so you don't start shaving into the side of the driveshaft sleeve. You will notice a change in color once you get to the sleeve of the drive shaft. once you are done shaving a gap in the side of the bearing take a vice grip and compress it until you bend that POS and crumple it. Verbally abuse the bearing while pulling it out with pliers.

5. Clean the inside of the sleeve with parts cleaner and put some thick grease back in there.

6. Put the new bearing (THE RIGHT WAY, circular spring facing out) on the sleeve and use a socket that is the same diameter as the bearing to knock it in very gently. make sure it goes all the way in.

7. Take the rubber boot off the drive shaft and slide it on the transfer case shaft, then slide the drive shaft back on till the boot seats again. Other wise the boot will restrict you sliding it back on.

8. The rest is cake. You should have much less vibration now and piece of mind knowing your rear drive shaft won't destroy everything back there if/when the rotoflex falls apart.

Hope this comes useful to people out there. Prshhhh rotoflex, what a ****ing joke.
 
  #2  
Old 05-20-2011, 11:53 AM
ColoDisco's Avatar
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The way I performed the seal replacement:

Used a air hammer with a semi circle chisel bit. Set the bit flush perpindicular to the seal on the metal edge showing. Put a slight angle on it away from the shaft and just bump the trigger ever so slightly. Go to the opposite side and keep going back and forth. Slid right out.

I too highly recommend just converting this over to the Ujoint version. Rotoflex sucks to work on.
 
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