Starting issue - Stuck in PA
#1
Starting issue - Stuck in PA
99 Dicovery 1, she's been runniing fine, stopped at rest stop, came out she would turn over, but would die out. I tried giving it gas, no luck. Tried jumping it, no good. Finally called road side, now in garge. Mechanic telling me there doesn't seem to be power going from back to front. I reset the alarm (original) system according to the owner's manual. Don't have key phabs, just with keys. Any thoughts, would be greatly appreciated, on my way west and this is put a damper in the plans. Thank you.
#5
You seem to be indicating that it may be an immobilization issue. If you know the Radio code, enter it with the key on the drivers door in the following manner:
Make sure the doors, windows and bonnet/hood are closed, get out and lock the car again with the key. (Note: on 1996 and later models, you have to turn the key to the lock position four times for this step if the remote handset was not used to lock the vehicle). Then turn the key the required number of times according to the following sequence. (At each step the side lamps warning light on the dash will light to show it has recognized the input).
If you don't, you can try the "generic" procedure listed below:
Generic EKA Procedure on NAS Range Rovers
The EKA feature does not seem to be enabled on US vehicles, or some Australian ones, and is not mentioned in their owners' handbooks (but see "rest of world" section below). However there does seem to be an abbreviated version of the procedure available on NAS models, intended to be known only by Land Rover dealers and using a generic code (1515) for all vehicles. One US owner with a 2000 Range Rover had his vehicle stranded with a dead battery and no remote available, but when jumpering it got the message "Engine Disabled, Press Remote". Since he did not have a remote, he managed to reactivate the vehicle using a variant of the EKA procedure that the dealer confided -- the dealer was fairly sure that almost all NAS P38's have the same EKA code, which is:
Unlock once
lock 5 times,
unlock once,
and then lock 5 times.
HOWEVER - I agree with Chris-Bob and Hilltopper - more information/details are needed for any REAL assistance.
Make sure the doors, windows and bonnet/hood are closed, get out and lock the car again with the key. (Note: on 1996 and later models, you have to turn the key to the lock position four times for this step if the remote handset was not used to lock the vehicle). Then turn the key the required number of times according to the following sequence. (At each step the side lamps warning light on the dash will light to show it has recognized the input).
- To enter the first digit, turn the key the required number of times to the unlock position.
- To enter the second digit, turn the key the required number of times to the lock position.
- To enter the third digit, turn the key the required number of times to the unlock position.
- To enter the fourth digit, turn the key the required number of times to the lock position.
If you don't, you can try the "generic" procedure listed below:
Generic EKA Procedure on NAS Range Rovers
The EKA feature does not seem to be enabled on US vehicles, or some Australian ones, and is not mentioned in their owners' handbooks (but see "rest of world" section below). However there does seem to be an abbreviated version of the procedure available on NAS models, intended to be known only by Land Rover dealers and using a generic code (1515) for all vehicles. One US owner with a 2000 Range Rover had his vehicle stranded with a dead battery and no remote available, but when jumpering it got the message "Engine Disabled, Press Remote". Since he did not have a remote, he managed to reactivate the vehicle using a variant of the EKA procedure that the dealer confided -- the dealer was fairly sure that almost all NAS P38's have the same EKA code, which is:
Unlock once
lock 5 times,
unlock once,
and then lock 5 times.
HOWEVER - I agree with Chris-Bob and Hilltopper - more information/details are needed for any REAL assistance.
#6
#8
Thank you Everyone
Just to update, got it to a garage, and 4 hours later, she started up and has been running fine. The mechanic determined the only thing it could be was a short in the wiring from the fuel pump to engine. The pump is fine, relays fine, inertia switch fine, etc. I appreciate everyone's thoughts and information. Just as a precaution I now only park the truck on a flat or nose down surface. I made it to my destination and she's been driving fine.
#9
My old D1 would leave the previous owner stranded sometimes (might have been why I got it so cheap). Shortly after I got it, the fuel pump completely gave up. Inside the pump assembly, the wires were all charred. I'm guessing this is why the PO had troubles on and off. The pump failed.... at my house... very lucky. I replaced it with an aftermarket part (proline from roversnorth), and never had any troubles again. If I had to do it again, I'd buy the allmakes pump from britishpacific. But I sold the D1, so I won't have to do it again.
#10
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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If I had to do it again, I'd buy the allmakes pump from britishpacific. But I sold the D1, so I won't have to do it again.
__________________
______________________
Care to explain why?
I put the ProLine in my early 97 which is Pre-Ael so it was the 100 dollar version. It has been 3 years or so is doing swell.
Tody I di have a problem where the clamp at my relocated fuel filter had come loose and was allowing gasoline to spray freely. And worst of all I did not have my handy little toolbag in the Rover.
I was close to the house so I parked it in an empty lot and started for home. About that time my son drove up, so we had the problem solved after a quick stop byu the house.
Lost a few gallons of gas pretty quickly. Peeved me off. Note to self: keep the damn toolbag in the Rover. Always check out the first smell of gas vapors. Do not drive it anyway, it could become a fireball. Verify fire insurance just in case.
__________________
______________________
Care to explain why?
I put the ProLine in my early 97 which is Pre-Ael so it was the 100 dollar version. It has been 3 years or so is doing swell.
Tody I di have a problem where the clamp at my relocated fuel filter had come loose and was allowing gasoline to spray freely. And worst of all I did not have my handy little toolbag in the Rover.
I was close to the house so I parked it in an empty lot and started for home. About that time my son drove up, so we had the problem solved after a quick stop byu the house.
Lost a few gallons of gas pretty quickly. Peeved me off. Note to self: keep the damn toolbag in the Rover. Always check out the first smell of gas vapors. Do not drive it anyway, it could become a fireball. Verify fire insurance just in case.