I need some help, my 96 Disco is still not wanting to run after starting when hot outside. I have replaced the fuel temp sensor and the crankshaft position sensor,and fuel filter which has helped it to start while hot ,however after starting it acts as if it is only running on a couple of cylinders as if not getting fuel. It will start to run normal after a couple of circles around the parking lot. It has had a complete tune up within the last 10,000 miles and runs great in cool weather. Any help would be appreciated!

 

Sounds like a fuel pump going bad.
Does it still do it if the gas tank is full?
If you let it idle how long before it smooths out?

 

I really hope that is not the case I hear that is an expensive problem but if that cures the problem I'll bite the bullet, since I don't think it's something I want to tackle. Is there any way to test the fuel pressure without shelling out the money on a fuel pressure gauge, I heard a crazy rumor you can use a tire pressure guage since it has a schrader valve but I dont want to blow myself up. What should the pressure be if I rent or buy a guage.
It does it with a full, half full,or low tank. (but only in hot weather for some reason) which confuses me.
It will smooth out after about 90 seconds to 2minutes but recovers best when I throw it in drive and sputter around the parking lot this will increase the RPM's and prevent stalling.
Why would the fuel pump only fail temporarily in hot weather.
THANKS! Spike or anyone else that can help.
P.S. does anyone think it could be the mass air flow sensor??

 

Well a MAF for a DI is $1500.
A fuel pump is $100 for your truck.
I hope its the fuel pump.

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Yes you can use a tire pressure gauge to check fuel pressure.
The PSI needs to be over 32 while running.
The fuel pump is a electric motor, when they are old/worn out they get weak when hot.
What really tipped me off was that it got alittle better after replacing the fuel filter, with a non obstructed fuel filter the fuel pump does not need to work as hard.
The less it has to work the more PSI you will have from a weak pump.
You can change it yourself, takes a hour.
Roll up the carpet in the cargo bay, unscrew the 6 screws on the hatch.
Unplug the fuel pump, remove the fuel lines.
Unscrew retaining ring, lift out fuel pump.
Make sure you also buy a new retaining ring and gasket.

 

I am handy but still a novice. I am assuming I still have to drop the fuel tank to get to the pump, and from there it should be easy to figure out or, can it be accessed through these six bolts you were talking about in the cargo hatch. I assume these bolts hold the fuel tank in(its 4am and i dont want to check right now) If I dont want to tackle it myself how much do you thing a pro would charge?
Thanks again you have been an invaluable resource,
Jason

 

You can access everything from the cover in the back, no need to drop the tank. Its a pretty simple job to do in these trucks. Im not sure what a garage would charge for replacement but i would think they would charge 2 hours plus parts.

 

Just like Long Haul said, everything is done through that hatch.
I replaced my fuel pump last fall and the hardest part for me was getting the retainer ring off.
A big flat blade screw drive, a hammer and lots of Liquid Wrench.

 

Thanks Guys!